The topo shows this route's start as a chimney right of an offwidth crack.... I took the left-leaning, fist and offwidth crack (left of the big messy chimney/flake) that gets bigger, then smaller, then tops out on a large, pointy flake (cool start) and then heads up to a perfect hand crack in the right wall of a ramp/dihedral...stemming and jamming the crack up to a roof with good jams from one crack to another up onto the steep licheny face with good holds just where you need them...a very fun handjamming pitch.
Protection
Small/medium to large cams...some trees and nice cracks at top, careful of lots of loose rock small and big
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Very good climb! The line looks somewhat improbable from below--and intimidating, but it's not bad once youre into it.
Bring an extra hand sized piece and a #3 Camalot for the hand crack--if you're short and not too solid on jamming, the hand crack section will be brutal. But if you're tall you can jam and stem pretty easily for good rests along the slot. The crux felt to be the few moves out of the deep slot where the hand crack jaunts out on to the licheny face above, and finishes into the finger crack. This section [isn't] hard, just a little tricky and the lichen makes it slippery--and I also had a pretty good pump going!
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Mar 17, 2003
I'll second AC comment regarding being short: at 5'3", I thought that going over the roof was particularly difficult. Stemming was not an easy option. That was the crux for me.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Apr 30, 2003
Err, uh, squeaks by with a star. Sorry. So many better routes in the Eldo area.
By Jayer Chung From: Denver, CO Oct 10, 2005 rating: 5.8
Lots of loose rock undermines what is otherwise a great climb. Bring extra number #1-3 Camalots for the hand crack. Great climb in the fall.
w/J. Blumberg 3.18.06...there are some weird moves on this climb. Lots of them. It's a good practice route for, well, other weird routes. Standard rack was sufficient. Beward the choss-pile at the belay.
Cadillac Crag
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