Jim Erickson called the Highway of Diamonds a "route of untarnished beauty".
For P1, start in the slot between fin one and fin two. The start is a shallow corner leading to a left angling crack that gains the right corner of the obvious large roof. You will pass the bolted line "Land of Ra" on the way. Hike up a moderate crack for 15 ft and belay above the roof in a small stance on the arete.
P2 dodges right for a short way and then cuts back to the arete for truly magnificent position on moderate rock.
Descend North or rap from the anchors on Land of Ra (165 ft). Take a lot of wired stoppers and a full range of cams.
Three stars for a classic piece of Eldorado history, great stone, and the amazing position. It's hard to believe that twenty years has elapsed since I touched this beautiful piece of stone.
By David Houston From: Boulder, Colorado Aug 26, 2002
I led the fist pitch of this route a couple of days ago and it is great. I would mention the long runout after the hand tranverse left up to the crack. If you're solid on 5.8 it just takes a cool head. But it is a 15-20 foot runout and the last piece is somewhat suspect.
Not that this site really needs another rating argument but I think the 9+ rating in Rossiter's guide for this route is a classic Eldo sandbag the hardmen of the 70s bequeathed to us. I was crushed on the crux -- leading and on top rope -- and I have been leading 10b and c in Eldorado. The 10b Ichiban Arete felt much easier than this line, which we intended as a *warm-up.* This is harder 9+ than p1 of Rincon.
I agree with Luke. You have to beware any 9+ rating put up in the 70's. Nobody wanted to give a route a ten and then given a bunch of shit for it. That's my interpretation.9+ is a dubious grade in any climbing area.
Classic Eldo 5.9 with a + for extra fun-if you like 1) delicious routes, 2) leather vests, or 3) tongue baths--go jump on this one, it doesn't disappoint!
Another crux comment. I'm sure we cheated the route by moving farther right, to "Land of Ra" and proceeding up and then left to the arete, but the move straight up is 5.10 tricky and a little run out (potential 20 foot whipper.) Having said that, I certainly appreciate the sandbag gifts of our predecessors, it keeps Eldo real and interesting.
By Brent Roaten From: St. Louis, MO Oct 15, 2005 rating: 5.9
Climbed on 10/9. Great route. I would have to agree that the first pitch is X though it is fairly mellow face climbing. A fall before reaching the secure finger crack would not end well. As for the second pitch, I am not sure what the original line is but skirting to the right seems more in line with a 5.9 rating than going straight up.
By Clint Locks From: Boulder Aug 4, 2006 rating: 5.9+ R
4 things: 1-the "runout fun" is not over after your pitch one traverse. P2 has plenty of spice left. This is not a good route for the fledgling .9 leader. 2-I echo the great idea of bringing a 3.5 and 4 for the traverse crack on P1. 3-Bring doubles of red, yellow, green Aliens for building your anchor on the arete, or sm/med. tri-cams. 4-rapelling (with 2 ropes) certainly beats the alternative loose, steep downclimb.
Finally-I pulled an autolocker off 'Land of Ra' on 8/4/06. If you can describe it, it's yours.
PS--Esteban-I'm not much into leather vests and I don't know what tongue baths are, but 'Highway' rocks, nonetheless!!
I wouldn't agree that the first pitch is VS. About half way through the scary hand traverse, right below the first bolt of Land of Ra, you an get a bomber #3 Camalot in a hole. It's still spicy, and I wouldn't recommend falling, but this is not a death route. Don't let the first pitch scare you and get on this gorgeous line.
This route puts the + back into 9+. I fell twice leading the crux on the second pitch and I found the fall to be clean and long enough to be exciting. The gear is bomber (#2 Camalot and just above that a perfect yellow Alien) so that should inspire some confidence to go for it (assuming, of course, that you're ok with falling on Aliens).
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