A nice TR with challenging moves. Tough balance in general, then fingery with small feet at the reachy-crux. A great little TR problem.
The blunt arete, pinched between the first pitch of the Bastille Crack and the [Northcutt] start holds an interesting line. The bottom of this is easier than it looks, being perhaps 5.10, as you move upwards the route gets harder, but most difficulties can be beaten at a grade no harder than mid 5.11 by using the holds on both sides of the arete and judiciously switching sides on it with the feet. A physical and insecure crux comes when you would least expect it, joining the Northcutt Start route just before [its] crux, perhaps 15 meters up the arete. This move is fingery and on poor feet, but goes surprisingly perhaps as low as 12b. Finish by completing the arete and face to the anchors.
I would say that I am surprised that this route sees no previous mention on this site. Then again, I had passed it by without attention for over a decade of climbing in Eldo.
Protection
Top rope from an anchor on Bastille crack. There is NO GEAR on this route and the moves are both hard and insecure.
I remember feeling slightly crestfallen when Derek told me he had done the arete; I had put in my share of tries over many years. More than just a committed soloist, he was an excellent technical climber. Long live the King
The Bastille - N Face
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