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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Mr. Natural 

5.8+

   

FA: [Robert Crumb]
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 884 page views

Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Feb 3, 2001


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Diane, as usual, making it look pretty easy as she...


Description 

This is a nice hand crack that shoots up directly from the west Redgarden trail just before the wooden stairs...one short but fun pitch.


Protection 

Finger to hand size cams...tree with fixed anchor 60 feet above trail.



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Mr. Natural

BETA PHOTO: Mr. Natural

The Original 'Mr. Natural' by Robert Crumb.

The Original 'Mr. Natural' by Robert Crumb.

Below the crux

Below the crux

At the crux. The crux involves some strenuous hand jams with poor feet to get your feet up to a big hold in the crack. Captain 4Q 9++s climbs the overhang to the left to the hueco'd face.

At the crux. The crux involves some strenuous hand...

Chuck at the crux. Chuck is doing this very differently from Luke in the previous photo.

Chuck at the crux. Chuck is doing this very differ...

FUN!! I agree with JB. Although I couldn't be wearing more clothes here....

FUN!! I agree with JB. Although I couldn't be wear...

Em at the start.

Em at the start.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 2, 2008
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Jan 1, 2001

This is a great warmup line. Rossiter calls it "lightning-bolt shaped", which is appropriate. To locate, look for the line running up the middle of a clean face with a big flake that you have to move to the left and up to get around. 60 above the ground is a large tree with rappell slings. Its probably 50 yards below the wooden ladder.

By Brian Sorden
Aug 23, 2001

Rossiter gives FA to Robert Crumb, the cartoon artist who conceived Mr. Natural back in the hippie days. So was the first ascensionist just a stoned art enthusiast or did he lead it naked with a long white beard?

By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 4, 2001

A great route. This route certainly can give you a pump if you fiddle with gear, all of the gear placements are great so keep climbing. Have fun with this one, a great warmup if you are doing Yellow Spur or anything higher up, Gma's, Darkness, etc..

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 13, 2002

Three stars? A solid route for sure, but hardly three stars on an Eldo standard. As indicated for three stars: "This route is great. It's one of the routes that you smile as you crank the moves on the rock. The length and asthetics of the line are factors also. It's a route that, when you're done, you say excitedly to your partner, 'That was friekingawesome! You're gonna love it.' You look forward to doing it again with another friend."

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 3, 2003

Good route but too short for 3 stars.

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 24, 2003

Very fun, but short. If the jam crack were twice as long, people would be lining up for this one.

By Richard Rossiter
Oct 17, 2003
rating: 5.8+

Oh yeah. Led this route naked in 1978, but no long white beard. I was inspired by R. Crumbs [relentllessly] 70s character, Mr. Natural. If you haven't seen ZAP COMIX, check 'em out. Heavy stuff. OK, the route is short, but the climbing is exceptional. Hence, three stars. As for the name, Captain 4Q, see ZAP COMIX. I would also recommend watching the documentary of the life and art of R. Crumb, CRUMB. Heavy stuff. Richard Rossiter

By ac
Oct 17, 2003

Saw the movie, as I never understood the underground following Crumb had.... Crumb was pathetic at best, just like his artwork. Lysergic acid diethylamide and a simple mind required.

By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Oct 17, 2003

"Those were the best of times , those were the worst of times". FWIW , I somewhat recall my solo ascent of the Bastille Crack on Purple Micro-dot. Guess you had to have been there. :~)Sorry you're too young to remember.

By Matthew Brejcha
Mar 26, 2004

Really fun pitch, only do it on the way in or out of a climb otherwise it's not worth the hike. Fun pulling around the roof.

By Jackie Blumberg
From: Eldorado Spgs, CO
Jul 22, 2004

Lovely line. Difficult to do naked in the rain while being gooned by 2 Brits.

By Holly Barnard
Jul 25, 2004
rating: 5.8+

After pulling over the flake, there is a very large jug (hard to describe but you'll know is when you see it). Towards the bottom of this jug hold there appears to be some friable rock. Looked like it could break pretty easy if one were to lay back off of it. Just a heads up....

Fun route, too short, but might be a good lead for those transitioning from 5.8s to 5.9 in Eldo since it protects so well.

By Jackie Blumberg
From: Eldorado Spgs, CO
Aug 24, 2004

Since when is doing a route in a unique style a bad thing? I had a fine time! It's not always about climbing hard, it's also about having fun. I suppose the fellow who ascended the third flatiron in roller skates should get chewed out as well, eh? The third has also seen no hands ascents and naked ascents. Perhaps you, anonymous coward, need to quit wearing your panties so tight. Relax and enjoy your climbing!

By Michael Amato
Nov 5, 2004

Tougher than it looks from the ground, this little pitch delivers a lot of fun and a high pump per vertical foot ratio.

By Larry Pedigo
Nov 26, 2004

Short and sweet! I couldn't get a decent hand jam in the crux, so I lied back and found it worked well (for me).

By Richard Rossiter
Jun 30, 2005
rating: 5.8+

Mr. Natural's (the route's) only fault is its brevity. It it continued with the same quality for another 60 feet it would be a super classic. It's still super fun, even if it's short. I'm sure some guys could relate to this. As for LSD, Dr. Leary had this to say: "Psychedelic drugs cause panic and temporary insanity in those who haven't taken them."

By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 2, 2008
rating: 5.8+

I did this a while back and recall the line to be immensely enoyable, but too short. After getting spanked on Vedauwoo 7s, I was a little shocked at how easy this went. Definitely played more to my style, being a recovering sport climber and all. And the good pro was a definite bonus - especially since I felt deathly ill and wasn't thinking clearly.