Above the crux at the secondary crux. Photo by Chu...
Description
Much better than fowl lunchmeat and stiff for the grade. Scramble right from Positively 4th St. and belay from an evergreen. Up friable 5.8 chimney (RP and slung spike protection) onto a great jug then ledge. Lieback a sharp, pebbly, right-facing corner seen 20 ft. left of Air Mail. Turn into a crystalline,, thin crack with nice locks and hand jams, and some steepness. Finish up easy but loose corners to large tree with rap rings.
Rappel 140 ft. or rope off toward the Rincon.
Nowadays, this would be F10 on the Sinks Bar jukebox.
Protection
Standard Eldo with midsize RP and 3.4 and #4 Friend.
I agree with Kimball: This is a nice climb, with the usual loose section (down low in this case). Crusher and I split it into two short pitches from the base, since there's a good ledge half way. In this style, the P1 chimney (5.8) protects with a 3.5 Friend. The P2 crack (5.9+) is solid and well protected at the crux with a fixed pin and gear.
By Mike Munger From: Boulder, Colorado May 12, 2007
Good quality climbing in the crux corner. The rap rings weren't there May 2007 but it's easy to walk off left from the next ledge up.
West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony Express
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