On Rincon wall, this system is just to the right of Over The Hill, and in a few ways is like it's harder twin. Like [Over the Hill] this route shoots up a nice dihedral before splitting off right to a little splitter crack. There are some differences though- the crux isn't a few moves between good fixed pins.
On Rincon wall there are [several] dihedrals on the left hand side. Aerial Book is the most obvious of these. Over The Hill is just to the left, and on the right the bolted arete, Aerospace is obvious. It is the large dihedral promininent on the left hand side of the attached photo.
Climb a short pitch, stemming and smearing up the dihedral (10d). The holds and gear on this pitch are both thin, but the climbing is more insecure than it is actually hard. The crux is probably about halfway up. After about 60 feet, a fixed pin belay is [convenient]. The belay is [visible] from the ground.
From the belay, move up and left on an obvious, diagonal crack and seam (not difficult) past a tiny tree (on the face (visible in photo), to reach a vertical splitter just up and right of the tree. The vertical splitter is the 11 crux pitch, but it is well protected and not sustained. I believe crux pro was a pink tricam, but a small TCU or a nut would work, too. After the crux, the route climbs up and right to a fixed rap on a large pine tree.
This route can be TR'd from the large pine with a 60M [?] or 70M rope if a directional was placed in the top of the crux fingercrack. This tree can be reached by scrambling to the right of the top of the second pitch of Over The Hill.
I was a little surprised to see that this classic had not been previously entered.
Protection
Mostly smaller gear, including 2 sets of mixed brass, but a few TCUs to 1.5" or tricams.
Consider Ballnuts or another slider nut (small) or take Crack n' Ups as Rossiter suggests if you really want more dubious protection. I tried this and got a few in, but they are not very strong.
I have [noted] this route as S as the first pitch dihedral does go some distance between very small pieces.
From the crack go up and left to reach the tree belay described above. You may also go slightly right from the top of the crack and continue straight up the headwall past two bolts (5.11) to a double bolt anchor. If you use long runners you can do this whole route in one STELLAR 160 ft pitch.TF
Tony's right about the S rating for the first pitch. It protects but with pretty small gear, Lowe Ball Nuts work ok. The 11a bit actually seems more mellow than the first pitch because the pro is quite good. But then, I've always thought that hard 5.10 (10d) was way more difficult than easy 11 (11a), if you know what I mean.
Correction: the route climbs up and LEFT after the crux to a tree. A 60m chord will NOT reach the ground from this tree. A rappel comes-up 15 feet short but will deposit you on moderate downclimbing terrain. Knot the ends of your rope! The TR rig will come-up even shorter due to the directionals left by the leader. Pack a double shoulder length sling, .75 and #1 Cam for a directional in the diagonal ramp immediately after the crux. It's worth mentioning again...knot the end of your chord for top-roping!
I had good but small gear for P1, and closely spaced, except for the last couple of (slightly easier) moves. Except for the last few moves, the "runout" has the gear at about your knees at the worst. For the thin section, this is what I used:
Small RP/HB (#2?) w/screamer, Red ballnut. Another small RP/HB (#2?) w/screamer, Blue ballnut. I fell several times (at least) on this.
At this point you are standing on the big white crystal. The hard moves are the next few moves to get to the good handhold on the left arete where you get a decent stem.
#5 Crack'n Up (haven't used these for maybe 20 years). Buried. Thought this was excellent, and certainly strong enough. #2(?) Crack'n Up a little higher. OK but not great.
The P2 crux is at the very top of the crack. Felt quite hard (ie, fell a bunch), but it was very cold. Thin fingers could help a lot. I was expecting a finger crack, but it was more like a "fingerless" crack for me.
My partner led both pitches in 1. I 2nd it and felt the corner was a lot easier than the finger crack. If I would have led it, I might not have said that.
P1 protects reasonably well with a big Camalot and yellow/red Alien before any of the small wires. A couple of #3 RPs protects the stemming. Small wires and a couple of blue Aliens protect he tips crack. Giddy up!
The link would seem to be Aerial Book into P2 of Aeorspace and then finsih on Aeronaut. I am definitely trying this next time.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Dec 16, 2005
There is a 20ft runout on 5.8 jugs on the second pitch. You basically can't get any pro until you hit the small tree on the face. The finger crack is a lot easier if you have 2-3 sets of small cams. Just plug and go...
The first pitch probably does not deserve a "s" rating, if you can hang out and place the gear. A #2 and #3 Ballnut are useful to sewn it up. You can grab the good hold on the left with gear at your feet.
I lead just the first pitch of this route in the seventies using Crack-n-ups for pro and EBs for shoes. This route is memorable as are many scary gear leads. As much as I love and do sport few will be remembered after 30 years.
Fantastic! Two very different sections, both of which are of the highest quality. I agree with the above comment that the crux is at the top of the finger crack. The feet seem to get thinner and thinner the higher you go. Definitely on my list of top 5 Eldo climbs...
By Bob D'Antonio From: Superior, CO Oct 26, 2007 rating: 5.11a R
I first did this with Crack'n-ups back in the late 70s. Climbed it several times since then with today being the latest.... The first pitch is dicey no matter what you get in...offset HBs work good. The second pitch is stellar...smaller your fingers the better.
Frigging cold this time of the year as it doesn't get sun till 2-3pm.
By Steven Lucarelli From: Arvada, CO Jun 16, 2008 rating: 5.11a PG13
The first pitch can be protected with up to three #3 BD Micro Stoppers and they are all bomber. Two of the placements are bottlenecked in and the other one is nice and solid, just set it a little.
Rincon - L of Center Route
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