[This route was originally TR'd by John Paine and friend in the 80s and called Dizzy Miss Lizzy for John's girl friend Liz who accompanied the climbers and was uncomfortable with the [exposure] of the East Slabs. John gave permission for the retro bolting, but ask that the name to remain. Retro-named] Scrutiny on the Bounty, [it] is located on the "Wall of Holes" which is basically in a deep cleft/gully on Tower Two, just above the top-out of Redguard. The route climbs up behind a large pine tree that is growing out of this gully and was quite easy to find.
This route is really, really fun, well-protected, and steep! In fact, there probably isn't an 11 move on the climb but surviving the pump is what probably give it the grade.
Make an awkward stretch to a huge jug and make the first clip here. Continue up on incredible huecos to the fifth bolt, and pull onto the slab and a sixth bolt. The crux is probably the transition to the slab where you must step left and making a technical reach to a hidden, incut edge.
Great route!
Protection
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Add CommentComments on Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty)
I found this route one day after doing the Edge, and I also remember that Christian had done something near it. Me and Rick Dirkson top-roped it and we called it Dizzy Miss Lizzy because my wife (then girl-friend) was totally petrified being up there. I tied my supertape chalk bag belt around her wrist as a form of belay to get her across the exposed parts on the way up.
Redgarden - Tower Two
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