Whale's Tail. The rock is not as step as the photo...
Description
[Attain] the ledge [on the] West side of the Whale's Tail as for West Crack or West Dihedral. Put in a belay anchor there and if desired, go a few meters up West Crack and sink in a good cam or stopper before starting off on this climb. Step to the right side of the large ledge and climb upwards on the clean face on good edges and ledges to mid-face, where a few small-to-medium stoppers can be placed behind a left-facing 2' crack/flake. This is the crux (5.6?). Pull this move and continue upward toward the top, getting just a few more [pieces] along the way.
Belay from gear on top or from the side of the anchor above West Crack. To descend, rap from that anchor to the ledge, or to the ground with a 70M rope.
Protection
A few stoppers & small cams. [This] route can be TR'd from the anchor above West Crack, but in all [likelihood], you'd be 'in the way' of another party if you did. The route rating VS designates a potential for a severe ledge fall, although the crux move could be protected, and more gear can be had if one chooses to wander.
I did this yesterday, and we toproped from the anchors above the West Dihedral, rather than the West Crack. Better all around--less swing, not in the way of the classic West Crack. I wasn't looking for pro, but I can see this being a very scary lead because it's a lot of slab with not a whole lot of crack.
The Whale's Tail
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