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The Bastille - N Face
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Interceptor 

5.11b R

   

FA: I don't know
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Views: 590 page views

Submitted By: msamet on Dec 8, 2001


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Interceptor starts on XM and where XM breaks right...


Description 

This is basically a direct finish to the crack on the first pitch of X-M and actually finishes at the bolt anchors atop Wide Country.

Follow the X-M crack up the face. When the crack turns from a bomber lieback to fingers and hands is where X-M moves right into the ugly chimney to finish atop the pillar. If you want to do Interceptor continue up the crack until it peters out at the base of a nice face/scoop.

Place a good TCU here (strenuous) and move up into the face via thin edges. A final crimp moves gets you over the bulge and into the middle of the scoop, where you can drape a sling around a flake for protection. Easier climbing leads up and left to the anchors on Wide Country.


Protection 

Standard Eldo rack with an emphasis on finger-hand sized cams and a long sling to drape over a flake.



Add Photo Photos of Interceptor
Rob Kepley prepares to intercept.

Rob Kepley prepares to intercept.

Rob Kepley in the heady Iron Cross of Interceptor.

Rob Kepley in the heady Iron Cross of Interceptor.


Add Comment Comments on Interceptor
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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 11, 2001

Also see the route description for The Spice Tour.

By Ken Duncan
Apr 18, 2005
rating: 5.11b

I think that this is one of the better pitches in Eldo. Deserves 3 stars.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
May 26, 2006
rating: 5.11b R

Just got back from Eldo this morning and climbed this route. What an outstanding pitch! Interceptor epitomizes Eldo climbing. Once you get out of the crack just keep your head in "check" until you can drape a sling over the flake. The moves are all there, just spicey. Three stars for sure. I would recommend this pitch to anyone who climbs this grade at Eldo.

By Josh Janes
Administrator
Jun 7, 2006

This is probably my favorite pitch on the Bastille -- classic Eldo. I think the only R section is the easy climbing early on. While a fall from the upper face/crux (before slinging the flake) could be big, it would also be nothing but air, in fact, I actually think it is a great pitch to push one's mental barriers on lead.

The second photo of Rob Kepley leading shows the location of the green Alien or similar piece (his highest piece), but one should also note that gear to back it up (a green or red camalot) can be had underneath the flake he's standing on.

By Joseph P. Crotty
From: Westminster, CO
Jun 8, 2006
rating: 5.11b R

Josh and Rob are right, an overlooked classic for sure. On my redpoint, I opted for a red Camalot about a foot below where Rob placed the micro Camalot in the photo, which I skipped. The classic conundrum of more pro or go is encountered.

Those that can onsight I applaud as this un-Eldo gem is tough to decipher.