Short (60 feet) route...just down from the Bastille trail on upper west face...locate large V-slot with a huge chockstone that you can easily climb under. Climb the messy looking V-corner and just above the Chockstone turn small roof into steep V-slot (crux). Cruise this to the large and messy belay ledge.
[Definitely] not the rock quality you expect from Eldo. Getting into the v-slot was the only fun move. I also did the second pitch and found myself climbing through tons of pigeon droppings.
By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Oct 22, 2001
It doesn't deserve the star that it get's in the new Eldo Guide. To start the second pitch go directly up the bulge just left of where the first pitch comes up and traverse under the pigeon shit to a very licheny corner. Go up the corner to a ledge and up an obvious but not pretty groove. It's probably better to rappel than to try to find the walk-off.
I had a lot of fun on this climb..P1 only. It's not the 'classic', by any means, but I think this would be a great climb to take a less-experienced climber on, or good for those 'time-frame issue' climbing mornings, (if Out To Lunge and Breakfast in Bed was busy)--It's short, fun, and no raps required. The pro was a little weird, though, I thought. Based on comments, I'm glad I didn't do the Poo-poo second pitch.