Your Mother climbs the painfully obvious overhang that juts above the descent ramp on the west side of the Bastille. Access the route either via the steep climber's trail along the west face of the Bastille or walk a flat half mile along the Fowler Trail from the Rattlesnake Gulch parking lot.
This route, which climbs well-chalked underclings out the big purple overhang left of Neon Lights, often has in situ draws, facilitating the heinous last clip. Six bolts take you to double-bolt anchors. While very public, this is certainly one of the cleanest and most spectacular sport routes in the Front Range.
I once saw a photo of the route in a Feng Shui book that described the rock as a "benevolent frog spirit." Look at it from the top of the canyon and you'll see what I mean.
Protection
This is entirely a sport route, though you may be able to place a shaky piece before the first bolt if you're gripped. A #2 Camalot should be sufficient to anchor your belayer on the ledge.
Spectacular route on beautiful stone. Good moves that are actually quite moderate lead you to a painfully tough throw at the end. Fun route with great fall when you miss the crux move!!!
For full entertainment value, after sending the route lower off and down-clean the draws- at the lowest bolt have your belayer give you a touch of slack and then let go...good training for Elitch's Amusement Park.
PS The perfect place to be for late afternoon sun.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Aug 13, 2002 rating: 5.12 PG13
Careful up there. The larger of the two holds by the 5th bolt is crunching and creeking so loud that your belayer can hear it. I had my doubts- I tried to work the crimper next to it and couldn't pull the move that way. Eventually, I got pumped and yarded on it anyway. It did hold me, but I would approach it with caution, if I tried again.
I think it is also the 5th bolt that is almost shattered out as well. There is no danger of hitting the ground if it were to pull, but you might get slapped in the head with a chunk of rock.
Willem, feel free to change that last sticky biner up there. Be warned that everything goes back with me when I take my draws down :) So, please replace it with a Petzl bent gate!
First five bolts replaced today with Anchor Replacement Initiative hardware. All but second bolts are 1/2-inch by 4 3/4; the second bolt is 1/2-inch by 3 inches. The sixth bolt is the one people wing off onto at the crux and looks like 3/4-inch stock -- still in good shape and way bomber.
The old fifth bolt was horrible, in fracturing rock that plated off when I unscrewed it. I started a new hole but that plated, too, until I found good rock to the left a little.
All holes patched and camo'ed; anchors are new (replaced recently it looks like, and in good shape).
I had some trace epoxy residue on my hands (from patching) and tried not to touch the draws in place, but if anyone is concerned, swap out the draws and retire the old ones (which looked kinda old!)
I have applied through ACE to drop the last bolt down so you can clip it before starting the crux -- if the review process doesn't pass the change, I'll go back up and replace the last bolt, which is pretty much mank right now (spinner with the nut not flush against the rock). If you're working the top section, go to the anchor FIRST and then use that bolt as a directional.
Thanks to Steve Mulhauser for helping with the paperwork and to Justin Roth for helping with the bolt work (and getting the rope up!)
Thanks for the replacement work. I've been trying this route a bit lately. It is way hard to clip that last draw. I just skip it, but alas I fell reaching for the anchor anyhow. I'll go back and get it next time.
The last bolt seems further away than all the previous ones. It makes sense to me to move it down 16 inches or so. Good idea!
The Bastille - W Face
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