V3 

Followed this today and what a cool pitch....sustained and long for Eldo. I wanna go back and lead that nice finger crack in the left wall and also Deviant, which looks HARD....saw this strong looking dude hanging on it today.....there's no feet. Led the 2nd pitch of Over the Hill today too, that finger crack has been calling me for the last 2 weeks and finally got to nail it today, very recommended!!

I did this route again, this time with the 5.9 finger crack variation. The variation is fun, but not too long and pretty easy for the grade IMHO. I thought it compared in difficulty to the rest of the route (maybe only slightly harder).

Also, some gear advice: some tricams (0.5, 1) work well and bring a #4 Camalot if you have one to protect a section near the end with two wide cracks on either side. Otherwise, you'll have to run it out slightly, but if you feel comfortable on 5.8 terrain, don't worry about the extra weight.

I led the route yesterday and it ranks as one of my Eldo favorites. I enjoyed it so much that I followed my climbing partner on the same route just minutes after the first climb. I also want to do the finger crack variation.

This is a fun pitch. It's one of the first 5.8 climbs in the canyon.

Great climb, it's like the V-slot on Verschneidung, but longer. Note to budding trad leaders: the climb protects well, except for the wide crack at the top (though it didn't feel too hard there). If you want to sew that up, two #4 Camalots would do the trick. There are good stances for placing gear, but in places the crack is a bit funky and takes a little more thought than just throwing in a cam or nut.

Awesome climb! Brice, you are right on--althought the gear is superb and always right where you want it, placing gear is definitely thoughtful--its not your normal plug-and-chug line. althought it looks line a tight finger crack from the ground, the crack eats up medium cams (green BD, etc), and definitely bring hand size and a larger piece up top (#4 Friend baaarely works), or else you'll be looking at quite a runout.

Also, anyone know if trail crews are gonna hit up Cadillac Crag? It's pretty loose, and I'm so used to nicely terraced benches and steps (Eldo is spoiled :) I saw them working on northern Rincon earlier in the summer, so maybe they're workin' down the line.

I tried leading this climb 3 weeks ago. There's a fixed stopper about 25 feet above the large block. After moving above this stopper, I was unable to get a good piece of pro in. The crack there is kinda weird and I didn't want to go higher without a piece. So, after fiddling with gear for way to long, I fell on the fixed stopper. I was unable to get the climb that day.

I just went back and tried it again this weekend. The gear is better above that fixed stopper, I just didn't go up high enough. After finishing the lead, here are my comments: I agree with the other posts, the gear placements are all there, but sometimes a little difficult to find or require a slightly strenuous stance to place it. The V is at an angle that is a little less than 90 degrees. So it can get tight, and your gear can get in the way. It is a pretty long pitch, so bring enough gear, and endurance. I used most of my 50m rope. The wide cracks at the top were not so much a problem for me as the lower sections. I found 2 distinctive crux sections, both relatively sustained, both about 20-25 feet, and both below the wide cracks near the top. Comparing this climb to other 5.8s, I found it to be a little bit harder, especially for a beginining leader (like me) because of the tricky pro and narrow, tight space. But this was my first 5.8 lead in Eldo.

I really enjoyed this climb. It's usually empty, and definitely worth the hike.

Great climb.

Solid 5.8

Led this yesterday and thought the climb was pretty sustained for it's grade (maybe it was the 50mph gusts and cool temps). An awesome climb, nonetheless. A note about the fixed stopper: if you're counting on using it, it's gone (I removed it with hardly any work). I wouldn't consider the pro tricky there anyway, as previously mentioned, or anywhere else on the route.Also, the double bolt anchors atop Trail of Tears are not set up for rapping (needs webbing or chains), and the belay isn't that comfortable.

Art Veenendaal

This route is kinda like Triple-S at Seneca in the sense that if you don't stem, it's hard. If you do stem, there are still some moves to consider, but a rest between almost every one of them.

As mentioned, very similiar to Veschneidung, only longer. Crux for me was in the middle involving lay backing, while walking up the steep wall. As with Verschneidung, because of the angle of the V, you can use your back to pressure your feet against the wall in this section. Didn't see much to stem with there. Higher, a #4 is needed to sew it up completely, but I climbed it without one, as that move is not that difficult. Top third of this route is pretty casual, the meat is in the middle. Quite a hike up to this crag, but a morning start has you in the cool summer shade, enjoying killer views west to the Divide.

Three stars all the way. Solid rock, sustained climbing, and even a shady belay stance! Easy walk-off to the left.

[Beautiful] long pitch !!! If you are not comfortable with runout sections definitely bring an extra #4 or two aside from your standard rack. As mentioned above the moves through the [runout aren't] very hard. I only brought a #3 Camalot and used it early on in the pitch. Awesome route, fun, long, thought provoking lead. Oh yeah when I was there I clipped a fixed nut and about 15-20 feet up a fixed red Camalot. Couldn't get it out though.!!! Enjoy - PEEEEAAAAACE out!!

Great route. I took a bad leader fall on it almost one year ago to the day (I landed on top of the detached block -- I didn't protect things well enough and payed the price) so I was eager to get back on it. The bulge takes a great 2.5 Friend and a 1.5 Friend a few feet higher. Do the 5.9 variation! It's not that bad for the grade and if you're tall enough you can stem your right foot on the dihedral and get some rests (I'm 6'1" and I could just barely reach it). I borrowed a #4 Camalot from a kind soul and used it up high BUT there's a really good stopper placement and smallish cam right there which protects those moves just as well.

My first climb in Eldo. I thought this was a great climb! Definitely sustained. A little easier than it looked but good fun sustained crack. And the approach ain't that bad compared to other areas I've been to. Look forward to many more climbs in Eldo.

For being only one pitch, this climb deserves three fat stars (imho). It's definitely worth the hike. The pitch didn't feel sustained to me. After reading the comments here, I carried a big piece along to protect the top and thought it was unnecessary, in retrospect.

Great route! I chose the non-stemming option while leading this one. I am just getting into finger cracks and found this one a good intro to finger jams and toe work (if not stemming). I did not bring big gear (i.e., the # 4 discussed above) and felt fine. However, without a big piece (hex or cam) the last set of moves out right to the bolts will be EXPOSED and a run out, but the climbing is easier at that point. Enjoy!

Led this route today just after leading the first pitch of Gonzo. It felt definitely harder than Gonzo P1. Long, very sustained, and it looks like there are several cruxes on the route. IMHO, it is better not to use the anchor at the top at all, it looks quite shitty and hard to reach.

The bird shit was not there the first time I climbed this route (many years ago), but it was there yesterday. Let's hope for some heavy rain....

I onsighted this one today and just had a great time. I linked both pitches, but unfortunately ran out of slings. Definitely keep that #4 for when the crack gets wide and splits before a large chockstone you have to haul on to get over. If you use it lower like I did, you can bury a #2 deep to the left. You can get a nut in on the right side of the chockstone before you climb over it. And from time to time see if you can stem the feature instead of puting your feet in the crack. Some awesome no hands rests that way.

Loads of thick, gooey bird crap up near where the .9 variation rejoins the dihedral (7/20/07). We chose to cut left onto Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf], a superb, thin face climb.

Climbed 10/6/07 with S. Costello. This is a fine, high-quality pitch. Keep the #4 cam for the wide bit. I was surprised to find my #2 and #1 Camalots still on my rack when I finished it. There are numerous excellent nut placements and a lot of good spots for medium to large hexes (#6-#12) if you've got them.

The fixed anchor is not so good and would require a hanging belay. Unfortunately there are not many options for a trad anchor either. Beware the choss!

Climbed yesterday and loved it. A few cruxes with ample protection. The bird shit exists and the wind was deafening, however despite the complaints on the top anchor, the hanging belay on the right wasn't terrible and the following walk-off was easy. Choose between walk-off and a double rope rappel. Have Fun!

Climbed this last week. Really fun climb. For the anchor on top, I was able to run an open loop of rope to an anchor around the large pine about 20 feet back from the top of V3. By clove hitching it back to my harness, I was able to sit right on the edge and watch my second the whole time without having to hang off the awkward-looking bolt anchor. This was with a 60m rope.