Hair City 

Note that this (phenomenal) route starts just right of West Buttress, below a large block which is located a little ways up the steep talus that rises up the west wall of the Bastille. Another locator which has been there for a while is an old cable slung through a tunnel near the base of the route.

I did this route today (3/9/01) and liked it very much. I led the 2nd and 3rd pitches. I thought the 1st was the most difficult and was glad I did not lead it (so I wouldn't have to clip any bolts not because of its difficulty).

Note: shameless gear beta follows--leading this route for about the 3rd time on Tuesday, I discovered a great, though inobvious placement on the overhanging headwall in a small square-cut slot/hole for a 2.5 Friend-sized piece. Previously, I had always placed iffy nuts in the same area. This placements makes one of what seemed to be the more dangerous sections quite safe. Also, save a yellow Metolius or equiv. for the last 8+ headwall move above.

Oh, and the first pitch climbs a straight line up past a pin and 2 bolts, and directly up the outside wall of the flake pillar which forms the West Butts second pitch. The second pitch is directly above.

Whoa--2.5 Friend size piece yes, but one with a narrow profile!--I tried to place a #1 Camalot, but it wouldn't fit. A green Metolius (#6) works well.

This route is definitely not .9+. It's .9, but it is the best .9 face climbing in the canyon in my experience

Near the top of the first pitch, just before it gets overhung for a few moves, there is a really solid #9 Stopper placement. This is directly below the left-slanting undercling crack in a little slot. This piece provides a little reassurance as opposed to placing iffy cams in the crack.

I followed this route, twice. A bit runout

The aformentioned "loose and runout climbing up to the crux" at the start of pitch 2 is only runout if you choose not to place gear. There is a good small cam placement before entering the steep section below the crux. Use long draws on this and the next piece and you can reach the top in one long pitch with no rope drag. I Don't bring anything larger than a .75 Camalot for this route, it's one of my favorite.

I have done this route many times and feel it does not need to be rated serious. Reason being is that the first pitch can be well protected w/ some creative pro just left of the second bolt, the 1st pitch headwall also can take 3 to 4 placements, again w/ a good eye for the placements.

I find the hardest move on this route is the mantle near the start. Once I was not concentrating (having led the route several times) and nearly lost my balance doing the move. As I recall there is a pin 5' below you here, but if it pulls or your belayer is asleep you could hit the ground. The middle of the first pitch is runout but it is very easy there. There are some large solution pockets in this section that will be full of water if you climb after a heavy rain (no problem, just unexpected).

Did this today and loved it!! Another Eldo classic! While I would agree with everyone above that the runouts aren't that big a deal (the climbing is solid, you can find occasional stoppers, etc.), I would disagree with the idea of not calling this an "S" rated climb. It IS a runout route. In general, the climbing is not harder than 5.7 in the runouts, but this ain't no sport route with a piece every 6-8 feet (and I'm glad it isn't). The fact that we all feel comfortable on it is great, but lets keep in mind that the purpose of this site is to provide beta. If you are just breaking in to 5.9, this route will most likely scare you. But, if you are used to Eldo climbing and haven't done it, go do this route! It earns its 3 stars.

Granted, we should all support our outings into the wilderness walls of Colorado with a guidebook, it was my assumption that the routes listed on climbingboulder.com and their descriptions were to give the guidebookless a means of finding their way up the wilderness walls of Colorado without a guidebook. That said, what is with the non-description of this route given above? Not only is this route surrounded by more difficult ones, difficult to protect (one must take care to stay on route), but with no actual description one might find themselves attempting V5-ish moves above a stopper on sloping crimps to gain the belay ledge at the top of pitch 1.

I am a little frustrated as I'd like to see those submitting routes and descriptions writing in more than just an emotional description of the routes...try qualitative and quantitative, please.

So, as to my question: I see near the top of pitch 1 that there is a viable path right to the belay cleft of West Arete, a viable path left into the dihedral/offwidth on the left side of the bulging flake, or a viable for superman only path straight up what Rossiter called jugs and I call microcrimps. Where does it go?

I seem to recall clipping a fixed pin near the bottom right side of the big belay flake (near the West Arete belay cleft), moving more or less straight left and slightly up from the pin, and then gaining a line of good holds near the left arete of the flake, which is followed to the belay spot. Just good old devious Eldorado face climbing, not crimps of death.

To AC - regarding routefinding.... you make a good point. Looking up at the wall, find the large block/ledge a rope-length above you. The first pitch finishes by surmounting a bulge at the base of this block and angling left (runout except for a funky big stopper placement) and then up just left-of-center. To get to this block you'll find the 'bucket ladder' directly beneath. Getting to the first bucket is a bit runout but 5.6ish. It sounds like this is the point you reached. If you get to the bulge at the base of the block and don't like the looks of it you can easily escape to the right. Good luck.

Regarding the rating:

One comment said it is 5.9, NOT 5.9+. I think the first pitch is maybe 5.9-, but lots of 5.8. It is the second pitch roof that is 5.9+.

Another disagreed with the S rating. If you are a solid 5.9 climber, experienced with tricky pro and confident in your placements, you may not "feel" runout on it. However, the S rating is to warn those that may be breaking into the grade or less experienced with pro of what they may be getting into. This is definitely warranted in this case. You MUST feel comfortable on 5.8 terrain, you MUST place pro opportunistically and in somewhat tricky ways, and you MUST NOT fall.

I think part of the fun is just finding your way up the wall. Who needs a detailed description on this route? It isn't tricky, just look for the easiest way and go.

The first pitch might be my favorite in the canyon.

David, with all due respect, saying you MUST NOT FALL does not really help anybody assess a climb unless it has no pro. Otherwise what is the point of placing protection? Do you mean that you would not want to fall at any point on this climb? If so did you not trust any of your placements?

It sound like you are suggesting someone who attempt this should either be very confident that they will not fall except perhaps on the protected crux(s) or that they should be very good at placing pro.

I succeeded on the first pitch of this climb yesterday evening. I found it to be more challenging than other comparable 5.8/9 Eldo climbs. The middle section of the p1 meanders a bit and the path-of-least-resistance isn't obvious.

The headwall of the first pitch still has me scratching my head. There is an obvious crack/gash trending left from the stance up the headwall, but it quickly peters out to crimpers. In contrast, the climbing to the right of this gash is much easier. I took the path of least resistance and moved up the right part of the headwall (almost to the exit on the right), then traversed left across the face before heading up the slab to the top of the flake. This seems to be different than the guidebook's route description.

Where do most people generally climb to get through this section of Hair City? The way I went was so close to the exit, that it seemed contrived to traverse left and then move up the face to the top of the flake. -Matt Findley

Executive summary for Hair City: where a solid 5.8/9 climber needs gear, it is there and obvious. Where the difficulty eases, there are runouts ... none of which are too scary for again - a solid 5.8/9 leader. Probably not the best lead for someone who isn't a solid leader at the grade, but an absolute MUST DO for Eldo enthusiasts. If you need more info to feel comfortable about this one, follow it first to make sure you've got it in the bag. Being solid on 5.8 terrain and confident on 5.9 and even 10 will be a plus for the leader and not take away from the experience and exposure.

One of the best at the grade PERIOD and probably among the best 50 routes in Eldo regardless of the grade.

Matt, I believe you followed the standard line. I recall maybe going somewhat right to get over the roof, then heading back left. Following the path of least resistance is the way to go there (follow the buckets!). It seems to me this is what Rossiter's topo indicates although he does not have his line going right over the roof (more like straight up).

Matt, I've led and followed it both ways, and it is perfectly doable to go straight up, but a bit harder and more poorly protected. Stepping right, up, then traversing is the more natural line, although as you say it seems odd to do so--when you step right, why not just continue up the easy chimney?

In fact, that's about the only thing I don't like about this route--it's a bit contrived (on both pitches), and therefore not as committing as comparably graded Eldo hair-fests such as Metamorphosis or Alice in Bucketland. But purely for the climbing moves, it can't be beat at the grade!

Ed-In response to your comment in response to mine, you are right. I am suggesting that someone climbing this be confident on such terrain at such grade and experienced in placing pro. Otherwise it would not be safe.

I guess I slightly misspoke when I said you MUST NOT fall. I definitely wouldn't have wanted to fall. I trusted most pieces of gear I placed and with so much rope out, the fall factor would be low. If one was to fall during one of the runouts, the benefit of placing gear is that you probably wouldn't die (i.e. hit the ground). Rather you would take a large, scraping, swinging fall and may find yourself with significant injuries--something I strive to avoid. However, that sounds better than death.

One of my top 10 in Eldo, maybe above W Buttress, because of it's clean line. A wonderful lead, and a fabulous solo because the holds are so positive.

Did a nice line a couple weeks ago: up Hair City down Bastille Crack total time 19min 12sec from backpack-to-backpack

Enjoy! sicmic

Don't slap rude and sail if you're shaky at the grade.

Tie in Mic. You're giving the kids the wrong impression.

Best rock quality I've seen in Eldo. Lots of traversing and awkward moves. Eldo is funky. Good route for the area.

I did this route last week for the first time. I think overall it is a harder climb than the West Buttress. Definitely more sustained. I started the opening moves by using the small ramp for my hands and traversing under the layback. Once under I shot right up through it to the bolt. I have seen other people walk precariously along this ramp as well. I tried both and felt much better traversing underneath and firing straight up. I was also able to place a #9 stopper in the small flare at the bottom of the lieback before the pin. Makes the opening moves a little easier if not safer. The rest of the climb was great. The run out is not that bad as it is on solid buckets the whole way. There are definitely some places where you could get off route especially when approaching the end of the 1st pitch on the detached block. On the right is blank face so stay left for the easier ground right to the anchors.

Climbed this route for the first time yesterday, what a treat! Runout for sure, but the pro is there at the difficulties. The first pitch is a gem, but don't miss the roof on the second pitch! Though it looks loose and chossy from below, some care on the lower foot holds gets you to super solid hand holds with great moves over the roof, and it's well protected with a bomber sideways #6 Stopper.

Marcel and I climbed it on Friday, June 24th. Great climb. Someone left a draw on the second bolt - maybe a result of the rain on the 23rd. If you want it back and can identify it, do so here with a phone number and I'll call you back. Otherwise, thanks.

I won't add to the gear-beta-blog-pile. Climb this route, it's fun!

Finally climbed this, great route. Ac on Sep15 2003 comment nails the pro/danger issue.

I now understand what 'safe IF you are comfortable at the grade' means.

Although the mantle move down low may be the crux, the balancy move just above the second bolt, was a bit hairy too. Once you figure it out and move up, good small stopper placements are there. Up high on P1 I went to the right side, placed a #1 cam in a crack , traversed left to that little horn in the far left upper corner, and up to the top of the block, a series of moves made more exciting with that much rope out!

Great Route! Run out but you can get gear where you need it, any 9 leader should be fine on this route. The crux is on the first pitch and although it is run out the falls are clean. Get on it! I would agree with Mic, and by the way Mic, good job on the time!!!