The Naked Edge 

Well, that doesn't surprise me, Pat, that you would underestimate or dare I say sandbag a pitch or a whole climb. I've NEVER heard you say something like, "Yeah, it was rated 12a s, but is actually more like 11c or so." ;-)

Alternate Route Description: first pitch is a killer finger crack the crux for most is a stem with left hand on the left arete about half way up. The second pitch starts on a slab climb this slab around a corner to a 5.10 crack. 3rd pitch is a long 5.8 section to the upper two pitches. This is were it gets really exciting. The next two pitches are overhanging and are extremely exposed. Climb up a finger hand crack make a dynamic move to a little ledge make some face moves up to a piton move left and up into a bombay chiminey go to a roof around the roof right around the roof and up to the belay (5.11). the beginning of the 5th pitch is the crux of the route thats the face moves getting off the belay. Make some face moves on to a upperward slanted ramp. Follow this ramp to the corner arete go around arete. don forget to look 600feet or so down to the valley floor here. And ascend the 5.10 hand crack. The last pitch scrambles off to the left to the top 5.6.

I was looking in the guidebook today, and the runnout .8 crack I described for the start was listed as runnout .10! Its probably not that hard, but in retrospect it is harder than .8, maybe .9+ and definitely not a good fall potential. Why am I telling you this? Well it looks pretty simple from the ground, but is harder and definately dangerous.

Pitches 1 & 2, and 4 & 5, can easily be combined without rope drag problems. This is a popular way to do the Edge. It is possible to retreat with one 60m rope from the top of the 2nd pitch; however, you need 2 ropes to get from the ramp at the top of the 5.8 3rd pitch down- a single 60m just doesn quite make it. This info might come in handy if you plan a late summer ascent and a thunderstorm rolls in...the top of the Edge is the last place you want to be during an electrical storm. The timed record for a roped party of 2 on the Edge (solo to the base), car-to-car, is 1:38, Michael Gilbert & Rob Slater, early 1990s.

Steve Levin is right when he says that the 1st & 2nd and 4th & 5th pitches can be combined without rope drag. Double ropes aren't necessary if you're careful and use long slings in the Chimney. Re escape, while a 60m rope leaves you 10' shy of the 2d belay while rapping the 3d pitch, a 70m rope works like a charm. The description is also inaccurate about sewing up the final handcrack for the second's benefit! A piece at the start of the handcrack (above the bulge) and one at the top protect it quite nicely for the second. One further point of clarification--Gilbert and Slater's record was not completely roped. They soloed unroped to the base of the first pitch. Chris Archer

The quickest means of reaching the start of the Edge is not Touch and Go, but as follows: from the base of The Contest (left of the start of Redguard Route) climb the left-trending ramp system for about 40' until just around a short bulging corner (5.5). Now climb a short, steep hand crack (5.6) to a bit of wandering and the Lower Meadows. Scramble up this (4th class) to the "Cave Exit" (5.8) and the base of the Edge. Watch dislodging rocks in the Meadows section.

The gear suggested for the fifth pitch is adequate for leading the pitch (indeed, most people can get by with one less piece), but you'll need gear to build the anchor. There is one fixed pin, so you'll likely want at least two more pieces. None of your smaller stuff will fit. If you're trying to save weight, you can use a couple of hexes (#8, 9), since you won't be needing this gear elsewhere on the route. Otherwise, a variety of cams in the range of #1-2 Camalots will work. Some people consider the entire block at the belay site suspect, and place a larger cam in the horizontal ten feet higher. If you're totally out of gear, and you began from the belay atop the fourth (not the third) pitch, you probably can runout the last pitch and belay from a tree at the top but you'll be missing out on one of the great belays in Eldo and communications with your partner will be a nightmare. Tom Isaacson

Some historical tidbits: when first free climbed in the early 1970s pitch 1 was the standout crux of the route, due to the abundance of fixed pins filling up most of the finger jams. This was first led by Steve Wunsch and rated 5.10+. On the complete FFA of the route a short while later Jim Erickson, in blue suede RRs, sans chalk, stemmed the entire pitch using only a finger jam or two. Over the years the first pitch became easier and easier, as more pins fell out. By the late 1970s no fixed pins remained, and now, with sticky rubber and chalk, we consider this lead 5.11a. Although it is easy for many nowadays to consider this route a casual stroll, consider going up there with primitive passive protection (first generation hexes, weird Moacs, parallel-sided stoppers), bulky rock shoes, no chalk, and only the complete unknown to great you (the approach of the early free climbers shunned any type of preview, and neither Jim nor Duncan Ferguson were into aid climbing). Truly one of the greatest ascents in Colorado history. If you see Jim at the Boulder Rock Club, ask him about his experience on the fifth pitch- it is a very interesting tale. Interestingly, he has never returned to the Edge since he and Duncan first free climbed it.

Bravo, Steve. Thanks for yet another interesting addition - reading history like this is why I hit this site every time I'm online....

Quick note on the "sketchy" pin on pitch 4. I fell on it about 3 times in a row last fall from inside the chimney, so it can/could hold a fall.

It is possible to sneak left around the corner from the base of the 4th pitch and avoid the upper 2 pitches. Just follow T2 to the top (5.8s from this point).

Last summer, insted of going in the chimney on the 4th pitch, I traverse (face climb) right after the pins in the flake. Do you guys know this variation (FA, Rating)... I think it's harder and scarier than the original chimney final part...

This route is just great!!!

For those of you with Friends, the fifth pitch pitch sews up with one each of Friends 1-4 (including half sizes) in order! So a single set of Friends works precisely on this pitch. You'll need something in addition for the belay.

For the onsight, the start of pitch 5 is definitely the hardest bit of climbing on the route. Once you get the right beta though, its not even the crux of the pitch! Its just one of those moves...

A #4 friend nicely protects the start of the handcrack on pitch 5 and is really the only decent piece of gear you can get for the "Cave exit" on the approach pitch.

For those of us who are very afraid of the fourth pitch and the expanding flake that holds the usual pro for the moves into the chimney, it's easy to reach left and place a good 3/4" cam (the yellow Alien, I believe). This piece is good. Trust me.

I finally got on this route yesterday after years of aspiration and must say it was even better than my expectations. The move getting past the second pin on the 4th pitch seemed just as hard as getting into the chimney above the third pin and for some reason this section proved to be the most difficult part of the climb for me. Is it standard to use that large hold way out to the climbers left then move back right? I tried to stay in the dihedral and use that tiny crimper on the face to the right which left me with a very long reach up to the next good hold. The 2nd pin also looks a bit suspect (downward facing) and I was unable to back it up although maybe it is possible.

A friend suggested that I post a link to a TR I recently wrote about getting dragged up this route by Hardly Manson. So, for what it's worth, here it is:

http://www.daniellaytonwright.com/climbing/tripreports/2002/>>>>>

Bill

Excellent synopsis of the route, Bill, and thoroughly enjoyable to read. Thanks!

Climbed the Edge on Sunday. Every pitch is stellar.

I thought Patrick Vernon's description and gear beta were superb. I also used some of the gear beta posted in the comments such as the alien placement on the chimney pitch.

Thanks to everyone for providing excellent information on this climb.

Carol Kotchek

there's a nut placement a few inches below that upperward driven pin on pith 4. After [I] fell on the pin and hyperextended my back, I put in this back up stopper below the pin.

I'm looking for an opinion. In August 2001 I lead and onsighted every pitch from Touch & Go to the summit of the Naked Edge. I felt I was at my limit on the last 2 pitches. Months later in April I onsighted all pitches to Levitation 29 in Red Rocks. I frequently onsight 5.11- crag routes on the east coast as well as desert cracks and granite cracks on the west coast. My big desire is to onsight Astroman in Yosemite or at least give it one hell of a go. I'm not looking for criticism but just an opinion from a seasoned fellow climber or from someone who feels they might be at the same level I am at and maybe the same desire. Also, If this comment sparks any interest for anyone as wanting to be a possible compatible partner then please let me know. Finding a partner who is willing to do the routes I want to do is difficult. That's why I end up leading all the pitches. I think Astroman is a route I need a partner who is going to take some of the leads.

Technically speaking, Astroman isn't much harder than the Edge. The pump/endurance factor is another issue. It sounds like you're there technically, so go to Indian Creek and spend a week climbing 5.11 or 11+ enduro cracks and you'll be there. The Rostrum is a good warm-up, but the Man is considerably harder. Don't stress out about flashing it; it's just an awesome feature to climb.

Personally I found Astroman to be a whole different animal altogether than the Edge... really no comparison in terms of commitment and fitness required. Astroman has long physical cracks while the Edge has short, weird, technical pitches. I've never done Levitation 29 but isn't that basically a long sporty-sport climb? Anyway, I agree with Brad's advice: don't "save Astroman for the onsight", just go for it and don't stress about the flash. I think the best way to train for it is by going to the Valley: do Steck-Salathe to prepare for the Harding Slot, do the Rostrum and crag at the Cookie to get used to the cracks, and do the DNB to get into the high-commitment frame of mind. You may have difficulty finding hard free-climbing partners in Camp4 so showing up with a plan and a partner is key.

To AC: In the Valley, the Right Side of the Folly (10d) is a great route and excellent training for the endurance pitch on The Man. Go forth young grasshopper, and send!

The Right Side of the Folly has been shut down from rock fall for years.

The Right Side of the Folly, aka the Good Book, is a death zone. See: http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yofogood

Sorry for the bad beta on the death route. It has been awhile since I've done it. No deliberate sandbag intended. Go do Wunch's instead, unless it is only accesible by boat now, has burned down, or is closed due to some contrived Forest Service regulation.

Guess I have to add a link to my Naked Edge TR since Bill put his in :)http://home.attbi.com/~Greg.Hill2/wsb/text/NakedEdge.txt

I read your trip report Greg. Good job in finishing it finally!

Are you sure, however, that it was July 4th?? 3 parties on the Edge on July 4th during raptor closure? I'm shocked rangers weren't waiting at the bridge to issue everyone citations. If so, is it common for folks to openly disregard these closures?

On this route and raptor closure: I'm sure Greg wasn't violating the ban. In Eldo the rangers are real good at scoping the closures with binocs, if the birds haven't nested they may open up certain areas well before Aug 1. This has happened for the last several years on the Yellow Spur. I wish they would do this for other raptor closures (like Boulder Open Space)!!

AC, I'd prefer to mail you this, but you didn't use a name, so I have to post it. I don't know what year Greg did the NE, but the closure there has been a recent phenomenon. When I first moved here it was the Yellow Spur area that always closed- the birds moved down in maybe 1997 or 1998 (?) Since then it's been the Edge and Diving Board area closing. As George said, they kinda do follow the birds a little.

I got a chuckle and a sigh at Devil's Tower in 2001. No raptors had been on the (massively popular, but closed) West face. I know why they were not there- I found them on a different climb. Rather than being on El Matador, they were over by One Way Sunset. I opted not to go through the 3rd pitch where they appeared to be perched. When I told the rangers about this, they shrugged. I don't think that they really cared to protect the birds, they just wanted to slow traffic on the cliff. I guess moving the closure to protect the birds would be a lot of bureaucracy and interfere with that agenda.

AC - It's a pretty old TR (1994 or something like that) and I should have put a date on it. I don't think I started seeing Naked Edge raptor closures until sometime around 1999 - 2000?

Putting your back against the left facing side of the chimney on pitch 4 and walking your feet up makes getting up to the roof seem less dicey. I followed this pitch, but I remember my partner struggled for a while on this until he did that. I just followed his lead and it seemed, well, almost easy - certainly less strenuous. It must have helped somewhat because we started the climb on T2 because people were on Touch and Go and I was already wiped out by the time we got to P4, but ended up thinking that was one of the easier pitches, although the move under the roof to the belay was troublesome for me. Just an alternative that might save you some energy for the continued hard climbing above.

Got a question... if, on the 4th pitch, one goes right along the flake instead of heading into the bombay chimney, what is that rated (I THINK it is the original aid line). It has been a while since I have done it but recall it was pretty tenious.

Great climb and I've got to get back on it soon!!!

Dougald MacDonald says above that a Yellow Alien in the obvious slot in the left wall of the chimney protects the chimney. Josh Janes told me the same thing, but said the Alien pulls. My brother Paul led this pitch and placed a red Alien at the top of the slot (leaving room for your hand below). We used double ropes (see photo) to avoid pulling out on the Alien. Paul fell 4 or 5 times and the Alien held, with the force split between the Alien and the fixed pin. Following, desperately and whimpering (again), the Alien looked good to me.

To be fair, I said, "The yellow Alien, I believe." Yellow, red, whatever. Go up there with both of them and you'll be much happier. I know I fell on one of them, and it held. I just better replace my busted red Alien before I go back up there, in case I was wrong about the size....

More for the Alien debate: I was up yesterday (last good weather before the closure)my first time, and was spanked by the chimney pitch. I tried the yellow alien in the slot. I fell. So did the Yellow Alien. Luckily I had a backup piece under the pin, however, I think; ahemm...I KNOW the pin is good...at leats for my 150 lbs. I popped out of there 3 times; the final one, I was reaching up into the roof. I was a bit perturbed, mentally exhausted and jammed my finger on my way down (boo-hoo). My opinion is that the alien placement, whether red OR yellow doesn't help at all. The sling length you need to make the rope drag manageable doesn't make the fall ANY shorter, and seems only to get in the way, FWIW. I expected this pitch to be a breeze for me, as I usualy excell at awkward, scrunchy wider pitches... Thanks to Cristo and partner for dragging our rope up, as we munched on humble pie. I have great pics of these guys on lead if anyone knows who they are (frequenters of "The Spot" in boulder?)

The Alien's worth is not so much in shortening the fall as it is in backing up that pin. Sooner or later the pin in that flake is going to blow when someone plunges out of the chimney, and that fall will be ugly! I'll take my chances with the Alien (yellow or red, whatever), with yhe hope that it at least slows me down a bit before I weight that pin. For what it's worth, it held me (160 pounds), the one time I fell on it.

Hey Doug Mc-D. Understood Robin Hood. I equalized with maybe a green alien immediately below the pin. To each his own. I [definitely] understand the slow down desire. That fall was no fun. Also, I see in some of the pics there is a pin in the lower section of this pitch (the dihedral); most likley a knifeblade. It was gone on saturday. Do you (or anyone) know where this went and if anyone plans on replacing it? I'm sure this has been discussed ad nauseum somewhere on the site...but I haven't found it...

The Alien may be pulling because of rightward pull from the rope through the pin on the right. When I followed Josh Janes on this almost exactly a year ago, he told me that on an earlier attempt he ripped the yellow Alien. So, in September, when I did this with my brother Paul, we planned on double rope for that pitch (single rope folded in half--see photo). I outwaited Paul on the ledge, and he took the lead for that pitch. He took 3 or 4 good wingers out of the chimney, and the Alien held, but the weight was distributed between the two ropes, one to the Alien, and one to the pin.

The piece that works if placed correctly and gently set is a 1 tech friend/red alien. The yellow alien generally rips. Dougald fell onto the tech friend not the alien.

This route was great!!! I was nervous about climbing this rout seeing how I just started rock climbing in January, but I was amazed how good the first pitch was! Great crack! My fingers fit like a glove in it! I would recommed this to everyone especially girls! Our hands are usually smaller :-)

The pin protecting the first hard moves on the chimney pitch is gone! NOT the one in the flake to the right of the chimney, but the one below it, the one that caused a bunch of ruckus at an FHRC meeting a few years back. A # 2 and 3 RP is actually quite bomber and the #2 friend is just at your feet when making the hard moves, so it's not too bad and probably safer now that you're putting in good gear instead of trusting fixed rust. Anyone know what happened to it?

Someone e-mailed me quite a while ago about the pin being missing. Must have been before the closure at end of January 2004. So it's been missing for quite a while. The reason the person e-mailed me is that they saw the pin in one of the photos I posted and were surprised to not see it on the climb.

I am Jealous. I can't lead 11a trad. At least not safely or with confidence. I have attempted grandmothers challenge twice, sat after the pod twice, but cruised to the top after. I have onsighted most of the 10a pitches I have led in eldo though. My favorite was Yellow Spur. I got Grandmother's on TR when I wasn't placing gear or hauling two ropes(I'm trying for the 200ft pitch). I generally climb 11a sport in Boulder Canyon, and onsighted or got 2nd try a few 11a's at Animal World. I have been trad climbing off and on for 5 or 6 years, and the few times I've fallen on my gear it has held.

So...honestly now, do I have a chance at following this route if I actually find someone who will haul my ass up it. Don't worry about hurting my feelings, around here I pretty much suck. I'd love to get to climb this route, I think I could probably do all the moves, but I'm worried that bailing would suck if I couldn't.

Poor Mediocre Climber. (none of my partners leads any harder though) Will Belay for Rope Gun up Naked Edge.

Dude, you don't suck; you're just not ready for it. I think the key is to keep pushing yourself on gear routes close to the grade, and you'll send it onsight. It might take a year or two to get there, but if you are working for it, it'll come eventually. Think King's X, Le Toit, [Disappearing] Act, Center Route, Outer Space and Country Club Crack but don't get discouraged if you get schooled on classics like NW Corner, Vertigo or Athletes Feet as they are pretty desperate.

Sure, you could get gunned up this thing by some yokul hardguy, but you'll be more psyched to lead it onsight.

Tevis- I would suggest some more Eldo prep climbs before getting on the Edge. King's X is a good trainer. I would also get on Grand Course, Rincon, and any of several 5.11 routes on the West Ridge (better to push it close to the ground at first). I would also recommend following some Eldo multi-pitch 5.10/low-end 5.11 routes, if you haven't already, say Super Slab, Psycho Pigeon, or what has been dubbed as "Le Verne" on this site. The Edge is not going anywhere, so get all these under your belt and by October when it cools off- go for it. Some other tips: Be well-versed in French-free technique, if you need to get through a section you can't do free. You would also need to know how to ascend the rope- should you fall on the 4th pitch you may swing out into space and not be able to get back into the rock. You can bail with one rope after the first pitch, or with 2 ropes after the 2nd, if you're not feeling the joy. The 4th and 5th pitches are the crux, though, and require a bit more effort both physically and psychologically. Good luck, and find a strong partner who can coach you through.

Telvis, I agree with the previous 2 ac's...those are all good routes to do in order to get your head into it. As well, they are very good routes just to do on their own.

Take you time and work your way up to it. This is [definitely] better on lead as well...every pitch. I would veture to say that it is best climb I've ever done. I've done it bottom to top 7 times and the first two pitches probably 30 -40 times as an after work workout and it was always GREAT.

You will have to do moves above your gear on this climb.

You only suck if you don't [pursue] you interest...you don't suck.

Thanks for the suggestions, I will look up those routes and try to get to them.

FFA 30 years ago yesterday and he's still crankin'!! Way to go Jim!

This is a note going out to the party climbing ahead of us on The Edge today (Sun 10/16/05)... We have the cam that you forgot to clean. Send me an email: (reachjimmy at gmail). Tell me where you left it and what kind of piece it was so I make sure I'm getting it back to the right person. I'll meet you at The Southern Sun some time and you can buy me a beer!

ALSO...If you were THE GUY IN THE ROAD WITH THE TRIPOD while we were climbing the 4th & 5th pitch: Get in touch if you have any pics of us...that'd be sweet!

AWESOME CLIMB!!!

Just curious about rappelling off the Edge, I recall rapping the route a few years back, but yesterday could not find the anchors on top so took the East Slab descent. Any info on where to rappel from? Thanks.

Regarding the "red Alien/yellow Alien on p.4" discussion... I placed a gray Camalot (same size as yellow?), and it held when I fell off trying to hump my way up into the bombay. The Camalots are, of course, a bit wider axially than Aliens, and this may have helped (a bit more surface area on cam lobes). Then again, maybe it was just dumb luck. Obviously, best to put a 24'" runner on whatever one places here....

Took multiple whippers directly onto the pin below the chimney on July 28. I weigh 200lb + gear and the pin held. I had it backed up with a purple TCU. Thinking offset Alien in the slot out left for the next round....

Absolutely one of the top routes in Eldo. For the fun of it & to see what a couple of old guys might be able to do... Dave Vaughan & I were able to shorten the Gilbert & Slater 1:38 speed record on the edge, stated in Steve Levin's earlier post. On 9/06/06 our time was 1:22 parking lot to parking lot no simul climbing and no skate boarding down the East Slabs. As a follow up and for some additional fun to make things even more interesting we followed that ascent with a night time ascent a couple of days later by headlamp. Great practice for those climbs you don't quite finish by sunset. I was afraid the park ranger might come & order us down. I could just see it now. Spot light shining up on us. Us looking down like deer caught in the headlights. "Hey you clowns on the edge! Cease your climbing activities & come down right now!! The park is closed to climbing at night!!"

"We can't officer you've blinded us with that spot light!!" \;o) Fortunately we made it to the top without any "hazardous" official interference.

There's a baby pigeon that appears to have just hatched this morning (Tuesday, August 21) to the right of the belay at the bottom of pitch 4 of the Edge. Watch where you stack your ropes. It's cute. Little yellow thing with a bobbling head.

The fixed cams on pitch one and two have been removed and someone put a pin (Lost Arrow) in the lower part of the fourth pitch.

Protecting the bomb bay is not as hard as it is described. My suggestion would be to back up the pin before entering the chimney mere centimeters below the pin with a stopper or a yellow Alien/TCU (or both, which I did) I reached out to the slot out left, but it was both not a good piece, and DEFINITELY in the way (as mentioned above). Also, it doens't make the fall shorter, so the better packups would be near the pin. As far as the exit moves at the roof, a red Alien is decent, but more importantly there is a great small stopper placement next to it, and even a small stopper placement near the hand hold as you begin to exit. They are all good. In fact, there is currently a fixed RP at the exit move (that I placed and could not retrieve) which should help out the next few parties at least.

Oh, and there is currently a fixed #2 Friend at the base of the 4th pitch. The stem cable is starting to wear, it would be good to remove it from such a stellar pitch.