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West Ridge - Long John to Verschneidung
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Next to Nearly 

5.9

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 343 page views

Submitted By: Aaron Reite on Feb 10, 2002


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Climbing Next to Nearly.


Description 

Climb the only crack between The Unsaid & Washington Irving.


Protection 

Standard rack.


Warning 

Eds. The anchor may be a rope stretcher to rappel with a short downclimb with a 50m rope to the ledge 30 ft up. Consider 2 ropes or a 60m rope. Also, if you belay from the ground, do not lower with a single rope!



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Washington Irving is the corner on the left; Next to Nearly is the crack on the right.

BETA PHOTO: Washington Irving is the corner on the left@SEMICO...


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By Aaron Reite
Feb 10, 2002

The entire line is no harder than 5.7 except for the last 10 feet where, IMO, the route becomes a bit contrived, being within arms reach of Washington Irving.

By Tyler Jones
Jun 8, 2002

I thought the entire line was well worth doing. Maybe two stars. The first part of the crack may be just an easy 5.7, but good solid holds. The crux, at a solid 5.9, has a great set of moves to figure out, while at the same time only having RPs or tiny stoppers for pro at the crux (fun mental game if you climb at that level). DON'T let yourself reach over to Washington Irving and grab the crack... try to stay directly on the crack and arete and you will enjoy this short thrill.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Feb 20, 2003

I protected the crux with two RPs. The climbing is straightforward until the crux (near the top) where the holds become interesting. I stemmed out with my right foot and found a small 'nook' in the rock and smeared/edged to the top. Fun climb.

By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
May 13, 2006

My first thought was "this is a 5.9?" The first 80% of the route is no harder than 5.5 (Eldo ratings) and would make a great beginner lead. Loads of protection and an obvious route. I assume the last few moves are up the junction between the Washington Irving stair-step bulges and the smoother, featureless bulge left of the Unsaid anchors. A beginner leader could easily reach over to WI and finish there.

By Dave Holliday
From: Louisville, CO
Jul 23, 2006

Fun alternative to the other routes in the area. The gear at the top is small but good. It definitely takes some willpower not to reach over to good holds on Washington Irving.