Ichiban Arete 

It is also quite possible to place a reasonably good Lowe tricam prior to reaching the bolts. It is the red one, if I recall correctly, but it has been years... I carry only pink, red, brown, so it has to be one of those.

I did this route several years ago and found it easy for 5.10b. Climbing up the arete is fun and very exposed. You can stick a cam (#3 Camalot, I think) in one of the pockets as psychological pro if you want, but I don't advise falling here.

The rappel bolts are in a odd spot, but for what its worth, you can rig a toprope from them for the untitled 5.12 (which is decent climb) with a little webbing.

ICHIBAN!!! yeah Mark, I thought the same thing about the grade, super cool route though. Bolts en route are new and draws will do for pro if you don't mind running it out a bit. Those bolts on top are starting to look pretty ancient and they are sharp, check the webbing..

Joyce (my wife of the time) and I did this route and The Untitled nearly 20 years ago. I went back up and climbed these routes during the summer of 2002. The initial stretch above the "belay tree" is really bogus and needs an additional bolt. Also the anchors at the top of the tower are not in a useful place and should probably be relocated at the top of face of The Untitled. This is a case of 20-20 hindsight. Please realize that 20 years ago "sport climbing" was in its infancy and the concept of lowering off from a climb was nearly unknown. One simply led the pitch, brought up the second, then walked off or rappelled. It was an extension of mountaineering.

Cadillac Crag is not in Eldorado Canyon State Park, nor is it in Boulder Mountain Parks. I believe this crag lies in a narrow stretch of BLM land and is not subject to the bolting restrictions of either agency. I may very well return and upgrade the fixed gear as is logical by modern standards.

Followed this today and we found the initial clip way [runout]. My leader threaded a runner off a branch on the fir tree...as the first clip is a ways up, with no other apparent pro. Richard, I agree, a bolt down lower is necessary. The climbing felt a bit soft for (10b) on the face, but good nonetheless. Decent crimps...Once up on the arete its a fun jugfest.

An extra bolt might not hurt the route, I guess. If it doesn't get placed, or until it does, you can put good gear in. Just take your Lowe tricams & look for the pocket. My partner and I both though it was bomber.

Great little line on excellent rock. Yes, the first bolt clip and the upper section should both be considered RO (though the climbing is easy). Also, there is no way that this route is 10b - solid 9+ (and a very short crux at that). Adding a bolt is unnecessary (though the old rap anchors and their position are questionable).

Even with the tri-cam placement, this route definitely warrants an 'R' rating.

Worth doing if you like the dicey lead. Go up the gulley from the tree, not out to the funky looking bolt to right of the tree. Place gear in the corner, then traverse right to good holds (don't fall!). Work your way to the bottom bolt in the line on the 12a route, then veer off right (crux) to a bolt near the arete. If you then step right onto the arete, it is a long way to the next bolt, but very fun, easy climbing.