Bill Wright arrives at the crux of the seldom-clim...
Description
This route is pretty fun, worthy of 1+ star alone, but since it is a variation of the 2nd pitch of Anthill Direct, it requires some brilliant climbing to get to it and after it. 2+ stars overall. This pitch adds to Anthill Direct in terms of difficulty, and if you've done A.H.D. a few times, perhaps a 'new territory' pitch is a refreshing change. Harder, more thought provoking, and a wee bit difficult to protect in one spot.P1: Climb the first few feet of Anthill Direct's second pitch and just as it becomes a handcrack, move out and right up a clean slab to intersect a steep crack and buttress on the right. Climb a thin, dark crack and flake up past a 9+ (or perhaps 5.10, as my partner suggested) move to reach good clings and locks, then continue on good gear to the top, stepping left on a big ledge to the Anthill Direct belay. (2 Pins + supplemental gear). Continue with Anthill Direct.
Protection
A standard light rack predominantly below 1.5." The crux would ideally have a better directional than I got to keep the crux stopper from popping out... if you popped and it popped, you are certainly going to get hurt. I might have just lazily missed the best pro.
Redgarden - S Buttress
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