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Rincon - Center Route & R
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Neato 

5.9 R

   

FA: J. Stuberg, M. Brooks, 1980
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 72 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Nov 11, 2001


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Description 

This route is [in the] popular 5.8 crack area of Rincon Wall. The route is the broken flake and crack system about a little ways right of 5.8 crack, and just right of the climb Outer Limbits and the huge tree at the cliff base.

This climb ascends a dark, broken flake and crack system with [awkward] moves and small, difficult, pumpy protection. To descend, rap from the anchor above 5.8 crack.

I waffled briefly about the 'bomb' rating. The route has some bad rock; it isn't terrible, it's just not worth it, that's all.


Protection 

There is some pro, but the rock is not great and the gear is pumpy to place. The gear is a few small [pieces] total. (tiny cams)

You can rig a TR from the tree above 5.8 crack with some swing potential -watch out for the huge tree below.



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By Ivan Rezucha
Jan 1, 2006
rating: 5.10a

On TR this felt like 10. It would be hard to place gear since the middle section has no good stances.