Die Heeda Rule 

FA:  [Duncan Ferguson,unroped solo] Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  1 pitch Views: 273 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Aug 2, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

The climb goes up a steep, clean dihedral on a thin crack. An even better variation (harder, and further above protection) pulls the prow of the roof to the right of the dihedral itself (5.11+)

[This was [among] my first submissions...here is how to get to the route:

Find Hawk Eagle Ridge by following the directions under the 'Rock' category. Walk up past the initial buttress, passing DOA and Cinch Crack. The rock becomes short and non-[descript] for a hundred yards or so, before returning to a single-pitch height of more vertical stone up the hill.

As you reach this tall area, you will see a series of 2 diamond shaped [south] faces that form right-facing dihedrals. After passing the second of these, you will be under and a massive overhang, where the trail runs parallel to a large, fallen, [rotten] tree.

Looking up from this point into the massive overhang/roof you will see a hand-to-fist splitter crack which runs through it, opening to a bomb-bay slot at the top. This is TOMBSTONE, a [reference] point for the other area climbs.

Die Heeda Rule is a flake and finger crack which becomes a left-facing dihedral about 15' off of the ground. This shares a start with Brother Jug, but runs left into the dihedral instead of up and right onto the face. This pitch is up and left of TOMBSTONE by about 40 feet.]

Protection 

Stoppers and double TCUs to 1" plus a few hand-sized cams. The gear is good, but can be strenuous to place.