Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts 

I watched someone lead this route today (3/4/01). It was very impressive. The route apparently had good gear cause he sewed it up like I sewed up 5.10 crack, with seven pieces including a cam or two!!

A favorite Eldo gem...although quite short, the climbing is excellent, and with a couple sets of RPs and several micro cams, the gear is good. Still, a challenging lead that is toproped 99% of the time. A grade of 5.11c seems reasonable. Ken Duncan is credited with leading this first in 1977, calling it "Thunderbolts", although it was also led in 1977 (before or after Ken is unknown) by Chris Peisker, a very talented Australian climber who was responsible for introducing RPs to the Eldo scene that summer (I paid $12 for a set of 6). Chris was (and still is) an extremely graceful and controlled climber, really special to watch. He left a legacy in Colorado including the seldom-repeated "Peisker Crack" in Elevenmile Canyon. He currently co-runs the rock climbing guide service in Arapiles, although word is he is more into golfing than climbing these days.

Whatever name you choose to use, this is an excellent and sustained route. The only thing that has changed about this route is that, with modern gear, it should not even get a severe rating. At every crux there is at least one bomber RP or small cam placement that would hold a good whipper. A definite must do and a classic lead in my book.

I'd give it an PG-13 on the current scale because it is hard to hang in there and make the placements. The stances are not all positive and I think that it's hard to fiddle in the gear.

Don't be put off by the above comment if your considering leading this gem. I found a good stance for every placement and to top it off the gear is really obvious (small cams and RPs). This was probably my 5th or 6th 5.11 in Eldo and didn't feel that bad for the grade. Its reputation makes it out to be far harder than it actually is.

[Definitely] no reason for the 's' rating lots of gear, only complaint is that it is short.

UPDATE - an two-bolt anchor with rings is in place for this climb.The anchor can also be used for 5.8 crack and 5.10 crack.

It's my understanding that [Chris] Peisker first led this stellar pitch in 77. I suspect the differences of opinion regarding the difficulty and protection ultimately reduces to height. Climbers 5'8" and under will have a difficult time placing the RPs at the roof. For me, the placements are either blind or difficult, time consuming and skin shredding. If the placements at the roof blew as you pulled the crux, you might be hurt in the fall, although probably not badly.

All I know is you're going to need a couple of handfuls of RPs at the crux or your busted ass will end up on the ground faster than you can say "Raccoon Soup"--with the o, u, one c, or even two.

My understanding is that Alec Sharp actually gave this route the name Raccoon Soup after he did it in the early eighties (?1981). I climbed with both Chris Peisker and his partner Coral Bowman when they were here in the '70s and hadn't heard that Chris had done this route but he certainly may have. Both Chris and Coral were excellent climbers and neat people who were a major part of the climbing community while they were here. Ultimately who did a route first really doesn't make a big difference to me, having good quality climbing available is the important thing. Personally I'd take a a repeat of a great route over the first ascent of a so-so route anyday.

I lead this in Nov. of '06 and found the gear quite adequate. I placed an orange, green, blue and black Alien on the lower section and even fell on the black Alien a few times from the small roof. So, I think the route is pretty safe with the new micro cams that are available.

The reference I've found for "Raccoon Soup" is Alec Sharp's "Boulder New Climbs '81" p21. This credits the "first ascent" as Chris Peisker, Christian Griffith 8-12-1980. So Ken Duncan and Scott Blunk did indeed do the FA in 1977.
Or should I say the FFA.
The unnamed FA was done on aid by Ron Olevsky in 1975, rope solo, testing the newly available Crack 'N Ups (personal communication, 2007).

Ken, tough to imagine a FFA without RPs. Great route.