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The Whale's Tail
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Amputee Love 
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Left Arete 
M 
Monument, The 
Northeast Arete 
Second Coming 
Spoof 
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West Face [Whale's Tail] 
Yorkshire Ripper, The 

Gut Feeling 

V? R

   

FA: Mike Brooks, 1981?
Type: Trad, Boulder
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 120 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Jul 9, 2003


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Description 

This route can be found [on the] Tourist Trail below [the] [Whale's] Tail, between the pedestrialn Bridge and the Monument Cave. Walk along the trail past a thin, open, left-facing dihedral. ([Dihedral One]) and to a second one, still right facing, undulating dihedral ([Dihedral Two].) You will notice a series of chanlked up holds [working] up and left on jugs to the left of [dihedral] a meter or two. [Along] the way you will [pad] a tapped-in gutter nail. Continuing the climb upward, [through the] roof, is easier than stopping for protection anyway, but obviously heady. Once on the slab, protect and start climbinng right, towards the anchors above "M." These chain & links are good for a lower off or stationary belay.


Protection 

[You] can place a few [pieces] in Dihedral Two, nearby and keep stepping right to do so (.5-2" cams) or you can just run this out a little (OK). Take long slings. Once on the upper slab, it was easy to put in directionals and go to the sport anchor and lower or rap off above 'M'