Crown Joules 

FA:  Alec Sharp, 1981(?) Type:  Trad, TR Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 173 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Jul 3, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Tony off-widthing the slot. This can also be layba...

Description 

This rotue also lies on the upper right hand side of physical crag. To locate it first find the impressive OW, Bacon and Ergs. to the left, perhaps 10-15 meters further there is a small, overhanging, shallow, left-facing corner system that starts with a wide slot for a meter, tehn sew closed to RP crack. From the ground the crack appears to be unprotectable, but as it turns out, it would probably take two VERY GOOD small nuts. These would protect the awkward and thin, prowerful crux. Climb up this and transition to a straight in crack just as the angle relaxes to vertical, and then proceed upward for 8 more meters of open book climbing in a left-facing sytem, protected on thin nuts again.Rap from the anchor.

Protection 

Eitehr TR it from the newly replaced webbing anchor (totally solid) of lead it.

The lead shoudl probably include a standard set of stoppers adn TCU's plus a wide cam for the initial slot and a few brass nuts for the crux. Gear placements will probably be strenuous.