Crown Joules 

FA:  Alec Sharp, 1981(?) Type:  Trad, TR Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 259 page views Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 3, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Tony off-widthing the slot. This can also be layba...

Description 

This route also lies on the upper right hand side of Physical Crag. To locate it, first find the impressive OW, Bacon and Ergs. To the left, perhaps 10-15 meters further there is a small, overhanging, shallow, left-facing corner system that starts with a wide slot for a meter, then sewn-up closed to RP crack. From the ground the crack appears to be unprotectable, but as it turns out, it would probably take two VERY GOOD small nuts. These would protect the awkward and thin, powerful crux. Climb up this and transition to a straight in crack just as the angle relaxes to vertical, and then proceed upward for 8 more meters of open book climbing in a left-facing system, protected on thin nuts again. Rap from the anchor.

Protection 

Either TR it from the newly replaced webbing anchor (totally solid) or lead it.

The lead should probably include a standard set of stoppers and TCUs plus a wide cam for the initial slot and a few brass nuts for the crux. Gear placements will probably be strenuous.