Deadpoint 

FA:  T. Bubb & J. Meir 6/13/04 (followed french free) New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 220 feet Views: 144 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Jun 13, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This route starts as for Fresh Garbage and follows that line for 1/3-1/2 of it's length before diverging for ~70' of [independent] climbing. From the Redgarden trail it will be easy enough to pick out the climb Fresh Garbage from [the] addition to [this] site. To the left side of said wall, you will see a chimney/trough [running] up the upper half, and a blunt rib of rock just to it's right. Harder to see will be the narrow, overhanging, black section of rock below the rib. A "first knuckle" fingercrack splits this steep black section.

Climb Fresh Garbage to reach this black face & crack- this is 'Deadpoint.' Climb the fingercrack (crux, small cams) to a bad jam and then some sidepulls (bad feet) to get established above. This is somewhere between 5.10d and 5.12a, but I don't know where. Maybe I missed a sequence, but I am guessing 5.11c, my partner declined to estimate a grade. Continue up the blunt arete/rib of rock until near the top of the cliff, then step hard right to belay at a tree

The [moves] required to free this are difficult and off of thin fingerlocks with bad feet. [Please] contact me if you repeat this route.

Protection 

One set of nuts, and cams to 4". The crux requires a few extra cams in the .3-.6 range and a 2" cam. Save them or take extras.