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Iron Pony 

5.11d

   

FA: Dan Hare & Mike Engle - 1989
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 150 feet
Views: 520 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 10, 2004


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Iron Pony. Rad.


Description 

Iron Pony is decent climbing up the arete left of the Pony Express dihedral.

Take p1 of Pony Express until it enters the dihedral then hand traverse left for 10 feet on big lichen-covered flakes. Stand up on these flakes, clip a bolt, and step up onto the face and arete. Continue up past 5 more bolts.

You spend a lot of time on the right side of the arete, and the location of the bolts (on the left side) can make for tough clips. Sustained and difficult, perhaps a sandbag at 11d.


Protection 

Some finger-size cams and wires. 6 bolts.



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By Bob Rotert
From: Broomfield, Co
Dec 22, 2006
rating: 5.11d

Great route and after getting to the second bolt you do climb quite a bit on the right side of the arete. Essentially doing part of the crux of Pony Express with added hard climbing on up the arete. I thought clipping, I think, the third bolt was a bit cruxy. Fun Arete climbing!!

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Left Hand Canyon, CO
Dec 22, 2006

Bobby, maybe it's just my old age, or I didn't figure it out first try. But I thought this thing was kinda 12a. Very good climb though.

By Bob Rotert
From: Broomfield, Co
Dec 22, 2006
rating: 5.11d

Hank, your age probably isn't the factor. Now not seeing the moves right off might be a possibility. \;o) Damnit, I can't read or even place RPs without glasses anymore!! Makes it hard to find those micro edges quick....

I wouldn't argue with anyone's assessment of 12a for this one. Hearing you feel this is 12a sure makes an old guy like me feel good, since I didn't think I could climb 12a anymore. I was just going along with the original rating, so I wouldn't look bad. It looks like Josh also thought it was a sandbag for 11+. Good to see your response here. Cheers.