Lene's Dream 

FA:  Roger Briggs & Scott Woodruff - 1976 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 530 page views Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 10, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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This shot shows the JV runout, the rotten band (ge...

Description 

Lene's Dream is an outstanding face climb in an outrageous position. It also makes a great finish to Jules Verne - it parallels the second pitch of the Naked Edge as Jules Verne parallels the first.

Climb the crux runout pitch of Jules Verne, place good gear in the rotten band, and, instead of traversing left, continue straight up to a nice stance above the band. Here you can place good gear and survey the climbing above. Continue up on 5.10+/5.11- technical face to an obvious slot for a green Alien or similar cam. The crux is the next ten feet or so of climbing (11c).

Finish by cutting over to the Edge at the point on the second pitch where you turn the corner from the slab to the steep face. I think the S/VS rating Rossiter gives the climb may be for Jules Verne? Lene's Dream seemed fairly well protected, although it requires a willingness to move above small, albeit good, gear.

Protection 

Small stuff. A 0.5 Camalot protects the initial moves; a Green Alien protects the crux.