To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Exodus is a worthwhile and well protected variation to the finish of pitch 1 of Genesis. From the left side of the G flake, about 10 or 15 from the anchors at the end of the pitch, head due left at a fixed pin w/ a chain link on it. Follow good bolts for about 20' to a right facing corner then up this for 10 feet to rap bolts. A single 60m rope rap will get you back to the ground; a 50m rope rap might come up short.
The climbing follows a horizontal dyke about 3' high and the trick is deciding when to go high -- dyke as footholds -- or low -- dyke as handholds. Another possible gotcha is rope drag so use ample runners on Genesis.
The climbing on the variation itself is one star, but in conjunction with Genesis prerequisite, Exodus makes for a three star Eldo pitch, one challenging move after another.
Protection
Rack for Genesis pitch 1 and a few extra draws and/or runners.
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