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Pilgrim 

5.10d

   

FA: Todd Montgomery, Mike Brooks, & Dan Hruby - 1987
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 207 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 17, 2003


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Description 

Pilgrim has some great climbing and mild (safe) runouts, but in my opinion it is not nearly as classic as comparable routes on the Bulge wall proper. Begin by climbing the first pitch of Pseudo-Sidetrack and belaying at the obvious tree (as of 2003 this tree is just barely hanging on for its life). Look up and see a lone bolt slightly right (High Noon), and a pair of bolts slightly left (Pilgrim). Make difficult moves past these and head up past an optional small stopper placement and two more bolts. The crux (and best moves on the route) comes just past the fourth bolt -- it looks improbable but the edges keep appearing. Two bolt anchor with links.

PS: High Noon is a total sandbag at 5.11a, whereas Pilgrim felt right on at 10d - a good way to put up a TR if you're near your limit.


Protection 

A fixed pin and four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.



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By david goldstein
Jun 28, 2003

We, me, my partner and Rossiter feel the crux is by the the first bolt. I thought this pitch was not a give away for the grade (much harder than Backtalk which I'd done immediately prior.) The climbing rock and position on the "slab" (above the second bolt) are quite nice. This route is similar to its sister routes, Blackwalk, Backtalk etc., but the ambience is more out there and the rock is unpolished. For those shorter than 5'7" the move above the 4th bolt could raise the difficulty and severity of the pitch.

Continuously interesting after the 1st 10 feet.

Typical Eldo crux, the rating seems accurate once you figure out the trick. There is also some 5.10 climbing by the 3rd and 4th bolts.