Surprised that this classic route is not in the database. A Eldorado classic with very hard and very different pitches.
Pitch 1: Start just right of the "Lower Ramp" and make a hard move to gain a short, obtuse, right-facing corner. Layback up the corner making a hard moves (use to be a pin in place) to gain a rotten band. Traverse left with good gear #2 1/2 #3 Friends on somewhat loose holds to a right-facing flake. Place gear in the flake and move up and left past two old 1/4-inch bolts on slopey holds (scary) and up to the belay.
Pitch 2: Start as for "The Wisdom" but where that route goes right continue up and slightly left into a very intimidating, overhanging dihedral. Things are about to get ugly. Stem up the dihedral using small gear (2&3 RPs) to the crux move about eight feet below the roof. Do a wild stemming and palming (crux) move and reach a good bucket and rest below roof. After a good rest, crank out the roof on fairly good holds and power up the headwall past two bolt (5.10+). The climbing becomes easy (5.8) past the bolts and soon reach Le Toit at the easy traverse. Go left to the Le Toit belay (and rap the route) or right and follow Le Toit to the upper ramp.
Great route and lots of good hard climbing packed in its two pitches. "A Briggs classic".
Protection
Standard "Eldo rack" with extra "RP" for the crux corner.
By Hank Caylor From: Eldorado Springs, CO May 13, 2007
I'm calling bullcrap on Rossiter's guidebook saying the end of pitch one is 10c. Almost a number grade harder in my opinion, but you got a bolt at your waist so that's nice. I didn't think the initial crux was as hard as being kinda flamed and slappin the slopes at the top. Really exciting, it's Temporary like Achilles' big mean brother. Thunder and lightning scares hampered efforts on the second pitch. Seems cool so far.
P.S.-no slam on Rossiter personally, I just got hammered at the top of this pitch. Yeesh!
By Hank Caylor From: Eldorado Springs, CO May 19, 2007
For once, I am now upgrading whole sections of a route, both pitches. The 11d on the 1st pitch is not that bad, but the 10+ at the top is heinous. On the second pitch, the 12b/c section didn't seem that bad but I fell on the (10+ c'mon!!!!) roof with bolts in your face. So I took a fall on each pitch, blowing what was to have been glorious flashes. Nevertheless, Roger and Bill Briggs are genius for establishing this route and I can't recommend it enough. Just watch out for the 10+ sections.......Godammit!
P.S.- Who took the bail biner off the second pitch and relocated it to the first pitch? You sneaky shit! You know who you are and you think you are soooooooo sneaky.
By Hank Caylor From: Eldorado Springs, CO May 25, 2007
I got it 2nd try overall, and Wayne got it on his 3rd try overall. I am officially calling the (10+) roof sequence on the 2nd pitch SOLID! 5.11!!!!!! Jeeeez Loouweez, 10+ my ass! Unbelievably good route. Perfect in every way, if you're into this kind of thing.
With regards to the heinous "10+" top of pitch one...It used to be even MORE heinous before the bolts were "replaced". Either holds broke/appeared or the bolt position got lowered down to an easier clipping stance. I remember it being very heinous just to clip the bolt! Maybe my memory is just bad...
Well, that bolt at end of P1 is still hard to clip for me. I'm 5'6" and actually need to do 2-3 extra moves just to start P1. Although being not very tall and quite flexible made P2 feel easier than the grade (so 12a for P1 and 12a/b for P2?). Two very cool (and different) pitches of the same route!
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO May 30, 2008 rating: 5.12 R
Freakin' amazing route! The 2nd pitch went down this morning on my 3rd attempt. Hank, I agree with you about the 10+ sections. It's one of those climbs where the cruxes come low, but you can't celebrate yet because you may get smacked in the face near the end.
The second pitch is one of the most unique climbs in Eldo. Last week after getting thru the crux corner I was shut down when I pulled around the corner slapping the tiny edges with pumped forearms(ahhhh). If you climb 12- in Eldo, get on this one. Don't let the grade scare you away.
By Steven Lucarelli From: Arvada, CO Jun 2, 2008 rating: 5.12b/c R
Good job you guys...lot's of ascents lately. When I first did the first pitch in 1982 I pulled the bottom crux moves and got into the rotten band and somehow managed to take a downward pointing spike just above the kneecap and finished the lead with blood pouring down my leg.
I have a picture of the bloody leg and will post later.
Redgarden - Roof Routes
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