Milk and Honey 

FA:  Mark Hammond and Chad Koorndyk New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Length:  1 pitch, 180 feet Views: 162 page views Submitted By: Mark Hammond on May 4, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Left of Milk Dreams, there is a left-facing corner 30ft off the ground. Just left of this is a seam which becomes a double seam through a small overhang, this is the route. About 25 feet of poorly protected but easy scrambling/climbing leads to the base of the corner and seam. Climb the seam and face holds around it (throwing a foot in the corner as needed) to just above the overhang. Gear placements and face holds just keep appearing, have faith. Step right here into a wide hands crack, then straight up to join the final thin hands corner of Milk Dreams. Double rope rappel gets you down. Or do another short pitch, Cookies. From the ground, the route looks hard, unprotected and dirty/no fun. It is none of the above, and is actually quite good.

Protection 

A set of nuts, a set of TCUs, a set of cams to #3.5 Friend (that's a #3 Camalot).