Fickle Finger of Eight 

FA:  Carl Lemke, solo, 1981 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8- [details] Length:  1 pitch, 100 feet Views: 116 page views Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 4, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Yet, another obscure little route....

If you seek this climb, find it on the far R side of Lower Peanuts. It is R of Star Wars and just R of Home Free. Squeezed between Off the Cuff and Sickle. It has a pleasant if brief 5.8 crux dihedral.

This climb starts up in a short, thinnish L-facing dihedral just R of a wide cleft (10") called Off the Cuff. Small gear, a bit of stemming and liebacking at you're through the crux. You can continue upward in a chimney with an interesting but easy roof move. Find a belay. Exit easily R to 3rd class terrain & descend. There is lichen and a bit of loose rock here.

Found these notes on this route as I was reminiscing about climbing with a young man, Ryan, a son of a good friend of mine, who is no longer with us in body. It was his first outdoor climbing day.

Protection 

basic Eldo rack