To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
More of a land mark than a route, this is the cave just below the first pitch of The Naked Edge and just up and right from the top of Touch 'N' Go. This is the most common approach to the Edge, it leads to the rappel route down T2, and allows access to the Upper Ridge. From the anchor atop Touch 'N' Go 4th class for 100' to the base of the cave. Climb up and right through the large roof, awkward 5.8 to a good crack that leads to the bolts after 15 more feet. Either continue up, traverse to the Upper Ramp, or rap to the ground in three raps from bolted a [description ends here]
A #3 and #3.5 Camalot are fine for this short and fun pitch. I'd say it has less bird shit than any other route to the Upper Ramp. If the Upper Ramp is your destination and want a direct route, this is the one.
A #4 Friend is not necessary. Not even sure where one would place it. I placed a #0.5 Camalot. Then a good green or purple C3 (blue or black Alien) and a small nut, then back cleaned the 0.5. Then pulled the roof.
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