P1: Climb the slab midway between Mountaineer's and Gambit to a short dihedral/small roof (5.8) and up to a large tree with slings.
P2: Follow a short finger crack over a roof (5.8) and up the small left-facing dihedral above. Place gear as the crack in the dihedral ends and traverse one move right and then up thin cracks to a sloping ledge (crux.) Cro-Magnon takes the left (smaller) of the two cracks above the sloping ledge, the larger crack on the right is Serrated Jam Crack. Follow the thin crack (5.9) up to a short face. Climb the thin face (5.8?) up to the two-pin, one bolt anchor on The Throne. I clipped the last bolt on The Throne for gear here as the flakes seem pretty fragile.
A 60M rope should get you down to the tree with slings and another rap to the ground, or finish up to the top on Gambit or something else. Using a 50M rope left us with a little soloing to do between belays, not hard but exposed.
I really enjoyed this climb so I gave it three stars, I suspect others may only give it two, since it is only the second pitch that it outstanding. This route is fairly sustained, the pro is good but takes a little thought to place.
A word on loose rock: Shirtail has it! There were 5 parties on Gambit last Saturday, I got pegged in the head by a pebble and we saw a basketball size boulder crash on the slabs at the base from up high. This is not a good crag to get too popular, but it seems that the lure of Gambit is high.
Great route but David is not kidding about the loose rock up there. I too clipped the bolt on Throne just below the anchor because I found the slab moves to be pretty tricky and well above my last piece (a small nut). I found good gear placements often occupied the good holds, mostly nuts and small cams. I also used the edge of S. Jam Crack at times for my right hand and foot and got a good rest. If going to the top it's probably better to climb past the anchor and belay a the next ledge wih a large pine tree.
By Shane Zentner From: Colorado Oct 18, 2004 rating: 5.10a
The second pitch is good with fun moves beginning with the roof. Green alien at the crux. Make a good placement where the crack ends(blue alien) and run it out to the bolt, or as I did, placed an ify yellow alien in a very hollow flake. The first pitch is funky.
Shirt Tail Peak
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