BETA PHOTO: The upper pitches of Hot Spur. Climb straight up ...
Description
If you can find it, you can climb it. This one is way up on Redgarden; keep hiking. If you make it to the 3rd class walkoff you've gone just a bit too far. Seriously, pass by Rewritten, Grand Course, and Sunstar (first pitch chimney is easy to spot). Just as the trail starts to switch back to the left (away from the wall) look back to the wall and find the best path to get there. This area is pretty steep and seems to be prone to erosion. From this point on, we constantly wondered if we were on route. I think we got close but corrections or clarifications are certainly invited. That said...we found the start of the route by locating what Rossiter describes as a large fallen block. The block angles against the rock and opens uphill with a small pine on top. It makes a nice spot to shoe up as the hillside is steep and loose. This spot is also in the shade of trees which is nice when it's 90.
P1 - Just a bit uphill from there a crack diagonals up and to the left with a small pine just a few moves away. Climb straight up (awkward but easy) to gain a second crack and follow this a bit left then up. Supposedly, there is a chimney in the area but we never spotted one. The closest being a wedge-shaped corner. Just to the left a 12'-15' vertical crack provided a couple fun (5.7?) moves up to a ledge and the belay. Probably 100' of 5.5-5.6 overall.
P2 - This pitch started with another short vertical section followed by 3rd/4th class for another 150' up a loose and rocky ramp. This gully is so loose it is impossible not to launch a rock or two. Be certain to position your belay with this in mind. In addition, try setting some occasional high pro to keep the rope up. As you reach the top of the gully the rock firms up and rises in a series of aretes. Set the belay as soon as the rock will take it.
P3 - The last pitch is described by Rossiter as "a slightly overhanging, left facing corner". Pick your way to the top. Although the rock is still questionable, there are some interesting lines. We chose a broken crack up a less than vertical face. The rock got bad and my leader dropped into the gully to finish the lead (5.5 into 4th). Seconding, I cleaned the first half then climbed back down and onto the arete-vaguely reminiscent of Icarus/Yellow Spur.
Jay Woods and I climbed this in Jan. 2005 during a snowstorm. We probably did the first and last winter-style ascent of the route. The wedge-shaped corner is the chimney crux, but the vertical-crack to the left (that is mentioned above), is much better at 5.7+. The first two pitches are pretty good, although the rest is generally discontinuous, dirty, and loose.(first two pitches combine well with crafty sling work and a 60m rope)
Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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