The Bitter Route 

FA:  M. Brooks, L. Wilson, 1982 Type:  Trad, TR Length:  1 pitch, 70 feet Views: 127 page views Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 18, 2002 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Raptor Nesting Closure Info MORE INFO >>> To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier. This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

The Bitter Route is on the lowest teir of the W/SW face of Redgarden Wall, and thus it gets early morning shade and late morning to late afternoon sun. The route begins from the trail and ends on a ledge near the base of Psychosis.

Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. The dihedral just above the ladder on the wall, behind the boulder, is Schizophrenia. Just left of and below this dihedral, perhaps just 6 feet is an overhang with a left-facing crack that rises up to form a downward pointing, almost horizontal crack. Climb up the handcrack and to the horizontal. The rock here is somewhat cubic in structure and is solid for holds, but might blow out from a hard fall on a shallow. Place gear in the crack and move upward into it. Reach out left into the thin seams and place a small nut, then move up and left onto the face over the overhang and work your way up perhaps 40 or 50 feet to the ledge above. Belay from the large tree, which presently has one fized purple sling, but no rap rings.

To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to the boulder and metal ladder again.

Protection 

A light rack with a decent assortment of small nuts and cams. The rock int he downward pointing crack just below the crux is somewhat cubic in structure and is solid for holds, but might blow out from a hard fall on a shallow placement. Place gear with that in mind.The route can be TR'd after leading Schizophrenia or after walking to said ledge as for the start of Psychosis.