Start from the tree 30' above Muscular [Dystrophy] 1. Up the right hand of 2 dihedrals a right facing, thin, corner with textbook, but difficult to see, RP protection, 5.10-. Continue around a pigeon shit-coated, handcrack and stem up and right over a small roof(5.10-) with a good hand crack and edges. Belay 15' higher, [on top of] a flake wedged between 2 thin cracks, tiny stance but excellent stopper/tcu anchors. 2. 5.7 ground leads to a [loose V] slot. Finish with a short but steep 5.9 hand and finger crack in a r.facing dihedral. Walk off. Quite enjoyable despite some looseness and pigeon poo.
I agree with David. I remember the lower dihedral being unprotected, although it's not the crux. Still, it's probably 5.9 and a bad place to fall. I thought Byobu had been lost in Rossiter's guide (it is not in the index) until I noticed it had been renamed.
By Brian Milhaupt From: Golden, CO Nov 7, 2004 rating: 5.10a
I didn't think this warranted an "S" rating. It protects pretty well with rp's. The real danger is the loose upper section which brings the two star climbing down a notch.
Having ditched the RPs and not having the heuvos to lead the right dihedral I chose to start out on the left dihedral then move right at the 'split' of the dihedrals then onto the pigeon crap crack which was fun. I did not lead the last pitch, but, from what I saw, looked scary and challenging.
I thought the climbing in the dihedral was a little dirty but still fun. The pigeon crack was horrible, which is too bad, because otherwise it would have been fun. The second pitch was a choss pile, with one decent move. I would not do this route again.
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