Curiosity got us & might get you to check out this historic wander. Although it was described as a popular beginner route in Rossiter's ole guide, I've never seen anyone on it, ever. Got a star, so we checked it out. Not sure I'd recommend it as a beginner route. So here comes perhaps a bit of obscurity.
Go to the L/West end of the bench behind Whale's Tail near The Bulge. Find a diagonalling, lower ramp going more L than up.
P1. Find a path of least resistance L along a ramp with somewhat polished scoops past 2 pins and a bolt (probably from another route). Place pro, go around a bulge then move down slightly. There is definitely terrain on this pitch that neither the leader nor the follower would be wise to scream/pitch off. Continue L & up. Rossiter's guide describes a poor belay that we chose to avoid (you'll probably be smarter than us & find a belay in here). There is a polished little wall with another pin that proves to be meaty for 5.4. Wouldn't recommend this for my 5.4 leading friends. Continued up the ramp L to the big tree at a large ledge. 250 ft, simulclimbing, 5.4d.
P2 or P3. Move down and R perhaps 30 ft to a path of least resistance. Up and R along a crack perhaps 50 feet. Rope drag makes the belay on this huge ledge useful. There are a few fixed pins or bolts here. 80 feet, 5.4.
P3 or P4. Go up and slightly R finding fun face climbing to a large ledge with a tree. You can exit off R here or, better, continue up to another ledge with a smaller tree. Belay. 5.4c/d.
From here, traverse off R to gain the East Slabs descent.
The old quarter incher at the second belay has been replaced.
I don't recommend combining the lower 3 pitches as described by Leo above. Belay after a short lead at the first bolt you come to (a cam backs this up)- this will reduce the chance of getting the rope caught in the flakes one traverses left around near the start of pitch 1. Then belay at the end of the long diagonal section at the newly replaced bolt and a fixed ring angle- to minimize rope stretch in the event of a fall and to allow better communication between climbers. Pitch three goes up and right past a fixed pin and onward to Sidetrack Junction (i.e. the large ledge) etc.
This is an excellent, exposed, and devious route that the 5.4 leader (or follower!) should approach with caution.
Running P1 and 2 together would be OK, I guess, if you were in a hurry and were careful with your gear placements, but why?? It's a great view from the P1 belay and it's comfy. Aside from that, the "small tree about 30 feet short of a huge ledge" (330) for the P3 belay as described in the Rossiter guide is gone. Use the beta from this page instead, and head all the way up to the big tree on Lower Juniper ledge to belay.
Fun route. For the last pitch, instead of traversing off right, you can go straight up at 5.5R. It's about 100ft and you'll be deposited on a ledge with a very large tree.
Redgarden - S Buttress
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