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East Overhang 

5.10d R

   

FA: Eric Doub, 1982
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 198 page views

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 17, 2002


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Description 

This is a short TR problem on the far R side of the Redgarden Wall. There is a short, overhanging wall near a big tree nearly just across from the start to Wind Ridge.

Best to scramble (be careful) around and set up a TR. Used a #2, #2 1/2, #3, #4 Friends with some 4 foot slings.

Have fun pulling and yarding on this steep little route. Long throws.

There is also a fun overhanging crack to the L, Balance of Terror, 5.9 (stiff).

Addendum: The posted rating was derived from R. Rossiter's fine S. Boulder Climbs guidebook. Having not the immense experience of climbing, I didn't challenge the rating. Addendum: okay, I've change the rating given the feedback.


Protection 

Trick question, eh? Okay, there are a few spots for pro.



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By Paul Stoner
From: Park City, UT
Oct 20, 2006

There's actually a few spots you can get pretty good gear in. A #1 BD cam fits perfectly halfway up, then a few feet above that, you can get a #2 that protects the moves over the lip. It's just a little sketchy until you get that 1st piece in. It's a pretty fun, although really short, route.

By Steve Levin
May 4, 2007
rating: 5.11a R

This is certainly as hard as its neighbors on either side, both rated 5.11a. Maybe they are all really 5.10d?

By Joey Thompson
Jun 11, 2007

Stiff little climb. Worth doing though. Take only a few pieces protects great at the lip. Short but sweet!