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Redgarden - Tower Two
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Bolting for Glory 
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Fools Learn 
Genius Loci 
Ghoul's Turn 
Green Willow Wall 
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Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation 
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Shasta 
Slow Train Coming 
T2 
Touch 'N' Go 
Weeping Willow 
Wild Kingdom 

Ghoul's Turn 

5.11c X

   

FA: Steve Levin
Type: Trad, TR
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 451 page views

Submitted By: msamet on Apr 18, 2002


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Description 

This is a long, elegant, but dangerous face route on the long-overlooked plaque of rock left of Jules Verne and Green Willow Wall. It starts about ten feet down the ramp (right) from Fool's Learn (a 5.10+ seam) and just left of a long, left-trending arch (Cameron Tague's Weeping Willow).

You can recognize this route by a black streak down low, which leads to a horn at mid-height, topped off by a long, green face tilted back at 88 degrees, and an easier crack to finish. This pitch finishes at the anchors atop Fool's Learn and can easily be toproped (bring some gear to back up the funky fixed jive).

Boulder off the ramp on flaky rock, which quickly improves. Crank left into the offset seam, placing small RP's and getting creative with stoppers (5.11). The seam leads to a horn and a nice rest stance. Sling the horn (a double-length or Rabbit runner is nice here) and run it out up the green face on crisp, but somewhat cripsy edges (5.10 vs). A thank-God jug appears just after you enter the deck fall zone ...

Easier climbing leads to the anchors.


Protection 

You're not going to need much. RP's, stoppers, TCU's (double up in the very smallest sizes - #0 and #00), and maybe a bit of hand-sized gear for the finishing crack and belay.