Paul's trying to move left onto the stance above t...
Description
The double seams just right of the first pitch of Pony Express. This route is listed as S/VS or something in the Rossiter book, but it's actually very protectable at the cruxes, and you're not in any danger of grounding/ledging out anywhere on the route. A nice, if not very sustained line. Probably easier than the 11+ given by Rossiter, especially if you're tall.
Protection
A couple of nuts (#4 or 5 stopper goes in at the crux) and a small Friend are sufficient.
Excellent face moves and an easy toprope from the rap anchors atop P1 Pony Express. Somewhere around 5.11c climbing. 4 and 5 RPs also help if leading. The gear placements are tapered and solid, but small, so placing gear provides a satisfactory tinkering experience, and all the tiny wired nuts look cool clipped into the rope.
I agree with David. The top of this pitch may be [relatively] easy (One 5.9 move) but gear is way below you and pretty thin to boot. [Definitely] should have an S rating.
One of Eldo's best thin crack pitches. Yep, this is called "Iron Horse" in the guidebook. A little contrived since you can chicken out onto Pony Express in a number of places. I guess you can give it an 'S' for the run to the anchors, but if you get through the crux, it really isn't much to worry about (maybe scarier for shorter climbers?).
What a great route! It protected well enough, but may still merit the S. There are some creative placements for small cams but wires seemed to be the ticket at the crux. I got by with just my small nuts (as usual) and no RPs. The short crux made it seem like an easier eldo 11c. Overall a wonderful route well worth leading.S
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Feb 2, 2006 rating: 5.11b/c
Not really crack climbing, not really 11d, and not very R. Also not that great of a climb. It is fun, but not a classic. The runout up top is just one committing move onto a high foot. 5.9 or maybe 5.10a, but not as hard as most 5.9+ moves (wink).