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West Ridge - Pony Express to Long John
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Iron Horse 

5.11

   

FA:  Dan Hare, Jim and Dan Michael
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 724 page views

Submitted By: James Balasalle on Oct 19, 2001


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Paul's trying to move left onto the stance above t...


Description 

The double seams just right of the first pitch of Pony Express. This route is listed as S/VS or something in the Rossiter book, but it's actually very protectable at the cruxes, and you're not in any danger of grounding/ledging out anywhere on the route. A nice, if not very sustained line. Probably easier than the 11+ given by Rossiter, especially if you're tall.


Protection 

A couple of nuts (#4 or 5 stopper goes in at the crux) and a small Friend are sufficient.



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You can climb the small ceiling directly, being careful not to use the Pony Express crack, or you can pass it on the right with a lot more fussy climbing.

You can climb the small ceiling directly, being ca...

Stepping off the stance to start the crux sequence. From this stance above the small ceiling you can get in good gear above where my right hand is. You can get a good higher piece if you're willing and able to stop in the middle of the sequence.<br /><br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Stepping off the stance to start the crux sequence...

Starting the crux sequence. There are some decent sloper footholds above my right foot and some small edges that you can toe on in the corner. If you're tall enough (I am, barely) you can extend off of these using a fingertip layback and reach a jug at the top of the corner.<br /><br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Starting the crux sequence. There are some decent ...

Routes in the Pony Express area.  Iron Horse climbs the thin seams between Pony Express and Mesca-Line.  A testy lead that can be top-roped after climbing one of the routes on either side.

BETA PHOTO: Routes in the Pony Express area. Iron Horse climb...


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By Steve Levin
Oct 19, 2001

Excellent face moves and an easy toprope from the rap anchors atop P1 Pony Express. Somewhere around 5.11c climbing. 4 and 5 RPs also help if leading. The gear placements are tapered and solid, but small, so placing gear provides a satisfactory tinkering experience, and all the tiny wired nuts look cool clipped into the rope.

By david goldstein
Aug 7, 2002

I think this pitch deserves an S. The crux is safely protected, but the last 20' (about 5.9) have no pro unless you detour over to Pony Express.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2003

With RPs and small tri-cams this is a well protected route. To top that, the moves are beautiful and the position excellent. An Eldo classic for sure.

By Kirk Woerner
Sep 8, 2003

I agree with David. The top of this pitch may be [relatively] easy (One 5.9 move) but gear is way below you and pretty thin to boot. [Definitely] should have an S rating.

By Joe Collins
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.11

One of Eldo's best thin crack pitches. Yep, this is called "Iron Horse" in the guidebook. A little contrived since you can chicken out onto Pony Express in a number of places. I guess you can give it an 'S' for the run to the anchors, but if you get through the crux, it really isn't much to worry about (maybe scarier for shorter climbers?).

By Shane DeMars
Jun 15, 2004
rating: 5.11c

What a great route! It protected well enough, but may still merit the S. There are some creative placements for small cams but wires seemed to be the ticket at the crux. I got by with just my small nuts (as usual) and no RPs. The short crux made it seem like an easier eldo 11c. Overall a wonderful route well worth leading.S

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 2, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c

Not really crack climbing, not really 11d, and not very R.
Also not that great of a climb. It is fun, but not a classic. The runout up top is just one committing move onto a high foot. 5.9 or maybe 5.10a, but not as hard as most 5.9+ moves (wink).