To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Rob Kepley just after making the signature "huck" ...
Description
This is a very cool sport (read: sporty) route that climbs through the sea of bulging rock right of the crux pitch of the Wisdom and left of Hands in the Clouds. The route name, a double entendre, is both a reference to the potential for big air on one of the route's cruxes and Cameron Tague's good-natured jab at the route's detractors, who griped that it was too close to The Wisdom when it was put up.
Climb Temporary Like Achilles and aid through the roof (or try Undertaker if you feel like pulling on what's left of the holds!) to a double-bolt belay over the lip. The route goes more or less up and left from the belay, passing two bolts on the vertical plaque before tackling a crux bulging section with two more bolts. Finish straight up on the easy corner above the crux of The Wisdom to a shared double-bolt anchor. Two rappels get you back to the ground, or finish out on Psycho Slab.
Protection
Some small wires and TCU's can be used to supplement the bolts.
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