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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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Blue Steel 
Clear the Deck 
Dangerous Acquaintances 
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Fire and Ice (to the roof) 
Guenese 
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Huck Off 
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Kloeberdeath/ Candallegro 
Last Rite 
Le Toit 
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Lipsync 
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Psycho 
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Temporary Like Achilles 
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Wasabe 
Wisdom Simulator Simulator, The 
Wisdom, The 

Lipsync 

5.12b

   

FA: David Light
Type: Trad, Sport
Views: 119 page views

Submitted By: msamet on Apr 8, 2002


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Description 

This is a hybrid/link-up type route but it actually covers some pretty cool terrain and must be one of the most overhung routes in Eldo.

Start on Kloeberdanz, cranking through the crux 11a roof until you're perched on the slab over the lip. Move up and left onto the hanging arete and clip a bolt.

Power out the arete to the lip of roof and clip another bolt, then hand traverse left along the good rail at the lip of the roof band. Clip a final bolt and continue left (crux), eventually joining Guenese at the good lieback flakes over the roof.

Use long draws on this route to prevent rope drag. It's easiest to clean this one on top-rope.


Protection 

Some small gear for the pillar at the start of Kloeberdanz and TCU's/stoppers for the corner on Guenese.