To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Going for the prize on the Contest. Photo: Bob Hor...
Description
Hike up to Redgarden Wall as for C'est La Vie or Touch 'N' Go, starting from the old concrete slab just SW of the Whale's Tail. Make your way up to the cliff and walk left a short distance to an obvious bolted line on a flat but broken, right-facing wall that overhangs slightly. This climb is on an obvious arete more or less 1/2 way between C'est La Vie and Touch 'N' Go.
The line of bolts follows a line of sharp holds up and left to the arete, then left at the corner. These holds start large but get small, and are somewhat painful in spots. Follow said line of bolts up, then left to the arete, then around the edge and up to the top. It's kinda fun, but kinda short, and kinda sharp. Still, it should give even a strong climber a good pump.
Shorter climbers may want to stick clipt he first bolt, but taller ones can clip it while still standing on the ramp. Climbing through the crux is thrilling as you're leaving the bolt behind you with a bit of a pump and a fall would result in a good swinger if you've passed the crux. Good sports action for the spectators.
Agree that the first bolt would be a tough clip for shorter folks, but you could also place gear in the flake to protect the start. Quite pumpy, but I didn't find it too sharp or painful. -Scott
RSS Feed
