To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
This route is more of a link-up than an independent line but it has some nice climbing and does follow a natural line, beginning on Kloeberdanz and moving left across the horizontal break under the roof band to finish at the anchors atop the first pitch of Psycho.
Though the first bit heading left from Kloeberdanz looks desperate and piley, it actually has fairly solid rock and some ok pro. Once you reach Guenese you get to start clipping bolts, but you'll still need plenty of gear to protect the stretches between each set of anchors.
Lots of cruxes, and plenty of interesting traversing make this an obscure, but worthwhile Roof Wall outing.
Protection
This is a long pitch. Lots of TCU's to 1.5" and some hand sized stuff, plus stoppers.
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