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Wind Tower - SW Face
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My Own Way 

5.10b X

   

FA: Unknown. FFA: T. Bubb, 12/8/01
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Season: Gets AM shade
Views: 340 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Dec 8, 2001


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BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...


Description 

Find the first pitch of Tagger via the route description on the page for that route. This variation was established on-sight lead. Judging by what had to be cleaned from it, it had not been climbed.

Look below the left-hand edge of the Tagger roof, between the standard start of Tagger and 'Across The River From Butt Hair.' From this position, 'My Own Way' climbs the blunt arete directly, without deviating to either side. This arete intersects the roof on pitch-1 of Tagger at its left-hand side. Pull the roof and follow easy cracks to the anchors above P1 of Tagger. This is only about 30' of independent climbing.

Like the nearby 'I Did It My Way,' this line is not very independent and is not very noteworthy, but for the mind game of committing to the small holds on little or no gear.


Protection 

A light standard rack, wherever you can get it in. This can be TR'd from anchors above P1 of Tagger.



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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 10, 2002

I think it is a bit presumptuous to claim this as a first ascent, Tony. This line has probably been soloed dozens of times as far back as the 70s. Certainly Derek did it, and probably immediately forgot about it. I think it may make better sense to credit this (and all other minor, insignificant variations that are being done these days in Eldorado) to "unknown", rather than fall into the pit of "Rossiteritis", where anything not previously credited gets Richard's (or in this case, your) name attributed to it. A little too much ego-stroking going on here.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2002

Really? Sign your name!

Considering the fractured chips I picked up and tossed off of the edges I ended up using for feet, I considered prior passage by anyone who weighed more than 40 lbs. somewhat unlikely. The little side-pulls I used required similar treatment. As I said in the post:

"Judging by what had to be cleaned from it, it had not been climbed. "

As far as anyone top-roping it, I don't know, maybe someone did and things stayed under foot and finger despite the pressure. I doubt anyone would have lead or soloed over what I was on because you'd toss stuff like that off instead of stand on it if a fall meant certain injury. I don't think that Derek would not have lived long if he was in the habbit of stepping on trash like that. So maybe he just smeared up the face instead of cleaning the obvious holds? I don't know for sure.

As far as the matter of ego-stroking goes, I think you should back off. You've made a big fundamental attribution error. How is leading a 5.10 an ego-stroke? There are 1000's of guys out there who lead that stuff. I just filled in the info as best as I had and if someone has a correction, I'd hope they'd post it. One could say that it takes a lot of ego to think you can read my mind and know my motivation, couldn't they?

When I see an anonymous comment that comes off as a "That can't be 'cause everything has been done already" I'm probably going to make some assumptions of my own. "So-and-so probably did it and forgot about it" is pretty weak. "Well, the 4 of us used to hang a TR on those pitches and see how many variations he could do of each one for the heck of it and so I bet we'd done that too." would be a better case. If you have a legit gripe, post your name and state why you believe what you believe or Email me from the link on this site.

I was notified by a party that Aftershock had previously been done and I changed that route. Also, When It Rains It Pours was changed to Chance Of Rain, upon a note from someone, although the two descriptions have almost nothing in common- I changed it anyway because the individual sounded confident and I was not sure.

In any case, you are obviously presuming the worst of me despite not knowing me. Now that is what I call presumptuous behavior, by definition. Maybe you're not a presumptuous individual (whoever you are) but this post makes you look like one.

By Joe Huggins
Oct 4, 2002

Just a couple of things to add here. You "anonymous coward" guys have got to stop being so lazy/shit disturbing and sign your names. If you can't own up to your BS, keep it to yourselves. As for the likelihood of Derek having done this, don't count on it. Did you know him? And Tony, a number of us (I don't remember who) toproped this GENERAL line sometime in 80-82. I wouldn't have wanted to lead it though.

By mike r
From: longmont,CO
Apr 4, 2007

Thanks Again Tony for letting me have two Ticks for the price of One!

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 4, 2007

Don't you mean 3?
Anyway, if sarchasm was intended it is too bad that you can't just take a note on a database for what it is worth: That there is another and significantly different experience available there if you care to lead it.
Anyway, have fun. Glad to hear you found a cam placement on it.