She Blew Me 

FA:  T. Bubb & P. Spindloe, 3/10/02 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, TR Views: 315 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Mar 10, 2002 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

There are two ways to approach this climb. If you intend to lead it (please preview it for your safety.

The name 'She Blew Me' is a pun on the nearby route Shibumi, and was made appropriate by the windy conditions during the FA. Approach as for Let It Rock, from the first pitch of Shibumi (traverse SouthEast around the corner) or rap in from above.

This route goes up the left side arete of the magnificent south side of the summit face of diamond head. This is a South-west facing, overhanging, gorgeous face route, between Shibumi and Let It Rock.

Either rap into or climb over to the base of the arete and climb it, within an arms length, and on the right-hand (south) side to the summit. This route has no protection, but is more secure than let it slide, as the holds are better. The angle of the climb, however makes it more difficult.

This route was also established via an on-sight top-rope down climb... and then climbed back up. The nature of the climbing is FABULOUS solid face climbing, although there are a few insecure moves. If this route were close to the trailhead, it would become very popular. Headpointing the route would also be possible, but it would improved with a few pieces of fixed gear (bolts). Although I frequently runout or solo 5.9, after the TR-downclimb, I did not lead this route in the conditions of that day.

For the record, the FA party has no objection to retro-bolting the line until such time as it is lead without gear. That is, if permission can ever be gained.

The view from the summit is a 360 degree panorama, including Eldora Ski resort to the west, and the back side of the Magnificent Devil's thumb, the Matron, the Tower Of The Moon, and Jamcrack Spire, all to the East.

To descend, rap down to the horizontal crack for another stellar route, rap from the anchors near the summit on Shibumi, or scramble/walk off to either side.

Protection 

This pitch is rated X and has no gear. Take a few pieces for the belays or TR it from the ledge above Shibumi or Let It Rock. As of this writing, this sketch-fest has not been lead.