The Reckoning, I've waited a long time to log this route in at cb.com. Mark had scoped this route several years before we went up to put it in. For now, I'll avoid a lot of commentary on the personal significance of The Reckoning to Mark except to say that The Reckoning hit Mark in much the same way that Battle's End hit me, and for a similar reason. It's a bit strange, perhaps, but when you have enough love of climbing it becomes hard to separate climbing from all of the other things that compose one's life. As a result many of us put a lot of personal stuff into our climbs, and so it is with The Reckoning, and how can we not?
The Reckoning begins by climbing the first two pitches of Handcracker Direct. At the top of the second pitch, step right to the tree and set up a belay.
The third pitch is the first variation pitch for The Reckoning and this entails a thin crack (5.12a) protected on small wires. After the crack, chase the arete on the left to a ramp system below the obvious headwall.
P4 fires up the headwall and constitutes the crux pitch. Take some gear for the start and the finish. Three bolts and a pin will get you to the diagonal crack above which is chased out left on small to mid sized camalots. The crux comes in the middle of the face on thin edges and corners; very fingery, very powerful. Finish way out on the left of the crack and belay after a short face at the tree. The easiest descent is to walk off East via the slab. The continuity, position, and complex climbing on The Reckoning add up to as good a line as you will find in Eldo.
Regarding the last pitch, there is now a two bolt anchor before the left angling crack, and two bolts were added lower down under the original first bolt. All the bolts were replaced a couple of years ago (with Park approval), with big, fat, new ones. So, 5 bolts, 1 pin, and a 2-bolt anchor, about 65 feet.
Great last pitch. Three solid .12 sections with some .11 before and after. Surprised that this pitch doesn't see more traffic. Small cams or wires useful before the first bolt.
I've looked at the last pitch of Reckoning a few times while climbing the last pitch of HD...while clipping bolts is not my passion or forte (maybe it's not my passion because it's not my forte) REGARDLESS!!! THIS PITCH IS SPECTACULAR CLIMBING!!! I am also surprised it does not see much action. It is a really nice pitch...Thank you Richard, thank you Mark....
Could the last pitch of the Reckoning be approached by scrambling up the east side of the West Ridge from the Redgarden Trail? Or, is there an expedient way to reach the Reckoning without climbing Handcracker?
Josh, There is a down climb from the top of the Handcracker pinnacle that comes down a ramp above Positively 4th St. If you walk uphill just past P 4TH St you can scramble onto the bottom of the descent which moves up and right. You could 3rd class to the top of the pinnacle and then rap into the anchor on top of The Reckoning and hang draws on your way down. Or once you reach the top of the ridge you can scramble around the back side and then onto the terrace at the base of the routes. You could probably reach the same place from the West Redgarden trail, but I haven't done it myself.
Josh, by the time you horse around with getting to it from the east side, it would probably be just as quick to do all of HC in one pitch. Particularly if you can cross the creek at the Milton Boulder.
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