Approach this climb at lower section of the top of the Northwest face of Lower Peanuts wall by [following] the trail to the main West Arete of the wall. From there, scramble up a left-leaning ramp to a good ledge.
From the ledge, about 40' right of the start of [Star Wars], or 20' right of Double Cracks (and the large pine tree which obscures it) you will see a large left facing open-book with a flake on the right side. Climb & stem up the corner on thin holds and sometimes thin gear. (5.10d) [This] is the mental crux of the route, but it seemed safe. After this sustained section, you will reach a ledge to belay on.
From the belay, start up and left into left-facing flake which is followed (placing gear) to a ledge. From the rest on this ledge a bolt is visible up and right on the face. [Climb] past this bolt and up into a small roof (thin crux) to clip another bolt above. Pull through the roof and go up and left [on the] line of least [resistance] to a final short dihedral above overhang near the top (moderate). Go up this corner on good gear to the top (5.8).
Walk up and right (southwest) on the sumit ridge to the saddle between Upper and Lower Peanuts wall, then down the loose trail to return to the base.
This route was fun, but not as aesthetic as some of the other face climbs on peanuts, such as Sunrider or Forbidden Planet.
Protection
This is a mixed route, but gear is [definitely] required unless you solo 5.10d.
The first pitch gear is reasonable, but not always where you want it, and is sometimes a little tough to fish in. Once again, this is not a good place to push your limits.
I made the mistake of trying to climb directly above the flake to the bolt, which is a difficult series of moves with a sketchy cam placement in the flake. Apparently, as mentioned by Tony, the route goes left at the flake and then to the ledge. I obviously missed this and went straight for the bolt (bad idea). The flake is strong but I wouldn't trust it to hold a fall. Going for the bolt directly from the flake is sketchy as hell, so I climbed around it.
The first pitch is definitely doable, although as mentioned, I wouldn't push your limits here (I'm a 5.10 leader and this was a thinker). The gear is good, just be certain to be quick about placing it. Aliens, Aliens, Aliens, and a #3 BD stopper.
Lower Peanuts
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