Approach this climb and belay as described for Forbidden Planet, which is just to its right side.
Start up a right-facing dihedral to the left until it is possible to move up and to the right in a right-leaning crack. Place gear and move up and right, following the crack to its intersection with the left-facing dihedral (a 5.9- appropriately named "Dihedral") to your right. You will intersect the dihedral near a flake. Place good gear and step up and left until a good ledge is reached.
For leading, I'd suggest 1 ~red Alien sized, a #2 Camalot for the end, and then a few nuts/RPs no bigger than #4 stopper. We TR'ed in and fiddled with pro for a bit, everything was a little questionable.
I concur with the "s" rating here, the pro is rather difficult to place and it's small. I used two #2 and two #3 RPs to protect fairly sustained moves, plus the gear mentioned above. The RPs might hold with Screamers, but better not to fall on the first half as that ledge is never too far below.Fun climb, maybe a bit harder than 9+, but probably not a good route for a 5.9 or 10- leader.
This is a great climb in practicing with RPs, HB's offsets and small wires placements. Place a lot because if you fall swinging in the corner or decking is very likely. A [reasonable] lead for a solid 5.9 leader. Chris W.
By Chris O'Connor From: Boulder, Co Jul 6, 2007 rating: 5.9+ R
This is a dangerous climb. I'm 6'1'' an could barely reach over to the flake to place the number two before doing the very committing and thin crux. A shorter person probably wouldn't be able to protect the crux making this climb very serious or X rated. I thought I'd be able to get a nut in the crack, but the crack was just too thin. Any placement would have been more for mental benefit and probably wouldn't have protected a fall. This would be a very nice toprope however.
Lower Peanuts
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