Tony Bubb places a piece on Kashmir before steppin...
Description
Go up the West Ridge past The Cirque of the Cracks. As the trail flattens out, just before reaching the Xanadu area, there is a very small, short section of reasonably solid rock. (See picture) Kashmir is a thin seam & crack that goes for 30' to a large tree, from which you can rappel or find a walk-off.
Protection
The protection is reasonable, if placed in the crack and to the left of the crack. Small cams and nuts are the primary gear. The route is short and will only require 3-5 placements.
This route may be very short but is very high quality. Cool moves on great stone. No filler. I'd maybe give it two stars. Certainly I'd recommend it to anyone looking for a high quality 5.11 pitch.
I thought this was a real difficult lead. It's one of those where you have to put the gear where your fingers are. More fun as a TR.
By Jeff Giddings From: Fort Collins Dec 11, 2004 rating: 5.11b
Good pitch, just a little short. The crux is pretty difficult and consists of 2-3 moves. I had a #6 HB offset to protect the crux moves then a yellow Alien in the obvious slot up higher. Those were my only pieces on the pitch. Another nut is possible but takes up your hand hold.
Curious about the FA attribution because in my 80s guidebook (Rossiter) it says this is a Charlie Fowler route?
Big difference going straight up using only the thin cracks versus moving in from the left up higher. Although contrived, several high quality hard moves in a short length, and a good one to do if all the popular climbs you hiked up for are taken, no waiting lines on this one!
The commitment factor and exposure are high though. Make sure to bring your headlamp.
West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony Express
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