Clint working up the 5.9 corner past the pine tree...
Description
Another short pitch on the "Tour of 5.10 Variations to Gambit," this one improves slightly over Missing Link on quality. From the big ledge above Missing Link (or the top of the dihedral pitch of Gambit), belay near a pine tree. Work up a short, bulging, triangular corner with a fist crack (briefly 5.9) to another ledge, step right to a steep dihedral, and ascend a nice finger crack to a larger ledge (Yosemite Ledge).
From the belay on Yosemite Ledge, continue straight up easier cracks overhead, or, perhaps better, traverse to the left margin of the massive Shirttail face, and join the spectacular summit pitch of Tiger Balm Arete.
Protection
Eldo gear to a #1 Camalot, plus a #3.5 or 4 Camalot for a short fist crack below the crux.
Did this yesterday on that fine 75 degree day. Agreed, this felt soft for Eldo 10a because you are through the crux to a nice jug so quickly.I'd think tall people may never find the crux, or for them this could be called a half-move wonder...or one-third move.Still a satisfying move, no matter. We definitely enjoyed the finish continuing after the crux left, as suggested, on Tiger Balm arete; so airy, sooo nice!
After climbing the short but sweet cracks on this one, be sure to traverse out to the arete and make your way to the top of Shirttail. The arete makes the climb [worthwhile] and the exposure it fantastic. Another bit of advice--bring some cocoa butter instead of ginseng along with. When you get to the top, you can shave your chest with some sharp rocks--the feeling is exhilarating!!
From a follower's perspective, the grade may be a bit contrived because the moves are over with so quickly... but the leader may feel much differently.
Shirt Tail Peak
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